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Bill_Halsey

The Windows 11 Update Upgrade or Buy a New PC

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All right, the Windows 11 update has been introduced and I'm assuming in 2-3 years it's going to be a requirement that we all have it. So, upgrade my current pc or buy a new one?

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Stay with Win7 and flip M$ the bird.

 

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What do you need to upgrade. HD Ram. CPU? Lots of variables.

On my former rig all I did was add an extra 16 gb ram and scrounged for an old HDD for more storage. Can never have enough .

Edited by Versili

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43 minutes ago, Bill_Halsey said:

All right, the Windows 11 update has been introduced and I'm assuming in 2-3 years it's going to be a requirement that we all have it. So, upgrade my current pc or buy a new one?

At time of posting... You have time and you don't need an upgrade... WIN10 is supported and I don;t see an EOL declaration from the manufacturer...

If anything (AND if you must)... Here's what I recommend now and until you need to update (ONLY WHEN the EOL  declaration is declared) the following...

  • SSD HD (non-portable). Size at your discretion of your wallet and your CPU capabilities.
  • A LEAST 16GB of ram... More is better.

These are the bare minimum for both Standard and Mobile systems...

GL


Win11 is a major step up compared to other WIN changes... I'm guessing %90 of the PCs are not available to run Win11...

Until the time comes, you may have to get a WIN11 capable PC... That time is not today...

Edited by Navalpride33

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10 minutes ago, Versili said:

What do you need to upgrade. HD Ram. CPU? Lots of variables.

On my former rig all I did was add an extra 16 gb ram and scrounged for an old HDD for more storage. Can never have enough .

The issue is that the BIOS requires Secure boot and TMP 2.0  which both my PC's don't have. I checked to see if the newest one I have has it and no luck.

1 minute ago, Navalpride33 said:

At time of posting... You have time and you don't need an upgrade... WIN10 is supported and I don;t see an EOL declaration from the manufacturer...

If anything (AND if you must)... Here's what I recommend now until you need to update (ONLY WHEN the EOL  declaration is declared) the following...

  • SSD HD (non-portable). Size at your discretion of your wallet and your CPU capabilities.
  • A LEAST 16GB of ram... More is better.

These are the bare minimum for both Standard and Mobile systems...

GL

I don't need an upgrade yet, but in one year,  MSFT is going to stop updating Windows 10. Your computer security is going to start diminishing soon after. Do it now or later, the question remains. Upgrade or buy a new one. I'll have to get a Mobo and CPU that supports Windows 11 and possibly a graphics card as well.

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11 minutes ago, Bill_Halsey said:
28 minutes ago, Navalpride33 said:

 

I don't need an upgrade yet, but in one year,  MSFT is going to stop updating Windows 10. Your computer security is going to start diminishing soon after. Do it now or later, the question remains. Upgrade or buy a new one. I'll have to get a Mobo and CPU that supports Windows 11 and possibly a graphics card as well. 

If you have the minimum requirements I laid out... You really dont need to do so now... IF you want to do so now that is on you...

From the software side.. No you dont need to pull the trigger on Win11 changes...Yet..

Edited by Navalpride33

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Third party anti-malware suites can take over security for Windows upgrades in most cases. Heck, 12% of Windows users are still using Win 7 without any significant issues. This is more than are currently using Win 11.

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Well, the computer tech I went to managed to work around the blocks and installed Windows 11. I'm brining in my older computers and see if that works also. 

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On 4/23/2022 at 10:19 PM, Bill_Halsey said:

The issue is that the BIOS requires Secure boot and TMP 2.0  which both my PC's don't have. I checked to see if the newest one I have has it and no luck.

I don't need an upgrade yet, but in one year,  MSFT is going to stop updating Windows 10. Your computer security is going to start diminishing soon after. Do it now or later, the question remains. Upgrade or buy a new one. I'll have to get a Mobo and CPU that supports Windows 11 and possibly a graphics card as well.

Check your hardware manufacturer's forums as even their tech support can help if a PC is 4 years old or less. Because I have a laptop that is over 3 years and it is compatible. I found out with support from the manufacturer that there is a feature you have to enable to allow the features required for Win 11.

I simply enabled the settings required and it worked.

Because most of those settings were turned off because they are default settings. They are in some cases set this way because most OEMs don't necessarily rely on Operating Systems to be ready on release and sometimes these features languish in a PC or laptop never fully utilized.

Now not every OEM is capable of this, but I urge anyone to consider the support sites and forums of avid users of these brands as the knowledge from these places is very useful.

Acer helped me. Ask any OEM support or forums before deciding on a purchase.

Sure hard drives in the mechanical realm are becoming relegated to backup storage. But SSDs are in two primary form factors and also one form factor that is more latest tech.

The two most common SSDs are :

  2.5inch drive form factor and is just fine for older PCs

NVME SSD slot mount, but requires a newer MOBO.

The thing is, some players already have what they need and simply switching a MOBO and keeping their 2.5 SSDs will do just fine.

The 2.5s are actually quite affordable and getting a MOBO with Win11 compatibility just as easy. You can get a very affordable NVME as well because speed is negligible. One thing to remember, make sure you overprovision your NVME well above your capacity to make the SSD last longer. For example, if all your Drive C is just under 1 TB, then get 2 TB. Use the rule of 2. Double what you already hold in C drive to allow the NVME to move the data around without burning the SSD out. At double, a given SSD can last 3-4 times its normal operating life. get to near max capacity, and that drive will die just shy of its warranty. Also, avoid any raid configuration, that marries the SSD to the Motherboard and if the motherboard dies, then your SSD dies too.

The heart of Win 11 is the processor. Refer to Intel and AMD sites for processors that work well with Win 11 at an affordable price point. You then get the complimentary board that supports Win11.

But bear in mind, even throughput has changed on the graphics card level. While all old cards from the 2k series Nvidia and AMD equivalents will still be good enough, you want the MOBO to support the future.

But also know that even a 1060 Nvidia or AMD equivalent is still a great graphics card. It is all about having 16gbs of ram minimum and a fast enough drive.

Processors are still fast for games and there is nothing wrong with Win10. The only reason MS is asking consumers to upgrade over time is to better protect your data as a consumer. But there are other ways to mitigate that. 

Remember, your PC was an investment then as it is now. If your budget won't allow it, you will have to make compromises. 

If you do have the money, then make sure it will support the latest throughput as that is significant and should last years from the 3k series Nvidia to the 4k series.

PCs have been and always been an investment for avid users because OEMs are no fun at all. Avid PC users build their own or at least get the components and have it built. 

The good news is that the market is saturated with competition on the SSD side and the graphics cards are also taking a tumble in price with supply actually exceeding demand.

Processors and Motherboards are the key here and that is where you have to do your homework. I did mine with what I did on my main rig. 

Now buyer beware about internet sellers of cards as most of those sat up on a shelf with a scalper and they are most likely 1st gen cards despite their hefty specs.

Get the ones from a reputable retailer that has a good refund, exchange, and warranty policy. Be wary of extended warranties as they can be deceptive. Hardware manufacturer and extended do not add on top of each other in some cases. 

I learned a harsh lesson in that myself. Ask tough questions when offered a warranty and run by them hypotheticals. Also get it fully in writing and laminate the crap out of all documentation as most receipts fade after 1 year from UV light.

It is the ink, a well known retail trick that should be despised. Because the retailer can easily say they can't look up your warranty on their server. 

Your rights as a consumer always defaults to a written agreement. So get it all in writing. 

Be selective, be stubborn, and don't accept anything less than what you expect.

It is your money, you must be like Darth Vader when it comes to opening your wallet and ready to whip out that saber if you get any sketchy stuff.

This is the way.

 

Edited by SteelRain_Rifleman

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