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Reymu

Hardware replacement and SSD

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Ok, at this point I'm pretty much settled on getting a 120 GB SSD from Micro Center, probably this one (http://www.microcenter.com/product/479785/CS900_120GB_SATA_III_6Gb-s_25_Internal_Solid_State_Drive) since it can support Windows 10. Objective is simply make WOWS faster to load.

Hard drive seems to be a bit fragmented, on startup it takes around 7 or so minutes now to complete its bootup, which of course means if WOWS does freeze and I have to reboot, good chance I won't be able to reenter the match. I've started looking at hard drives, and my younger brother (who's built his own computer) said Toshiba hard drives are great quality and cheaper than other brands. Something like this looks good: http://www.microcenter.com/product/478141/L200_1TB_SATA_II_3Gb-s_25_Mobile_Internal_Hard_Drive_-_HDWJ110XZSTA

Of course, get a new hard drive, I'll need to buy another OS or get the free version of Windows 10. My brother will be able to help with that.

As I understand it, SATA and power cables are separately sold from any hard drive or SSD, so need to buy those as well. They're standardized so any drive can use them?

For both drives, I'm spending less than $60 each, which helps since I'm on budget.

If anyone can critique the reliability, quality, and so forth, that'd be great. Shopping list's not finalized until certain I got a great idea what I'm getting. Thanks!

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21 minutes ago, Reymu said:

Ok, at this point I'm pretty much settled on getting a 120 GB SSD from Micro Center, probably this one (http://www.microcenter.com/product/479785/CS900_120GB_SATA_III_6Gb-s_25_Internal_Solid_State_Drive) since it can support Windows 10. Objective is simply make WOWS faster to load.

Hard drive seems to be a bit fragmented, on startup it takes around 7 or so minutes now to complete its bootup, which of course means if WOWS does freeze and I have to reboot, good chance I won't be able to reenter the match. I've started looking at hard drives, and my younger brother (who's built his own computer) said Toshiba hard drives are great quality and cheaper than other brands. Something like this looks good: http://www.microcenter.com/product/478141/L200_1TB_SATA_II_3Gb-s_25_Mobile_Internal_Hard_Drive_-_HDWJ110XZSTA

Of course, get a new hard drive, I'll need to buy another OS or get the free version of Windows 10. My brother will be able to help with that.

As I understand it, SATA and power cables are separately sold from any hard drive or SSD, so need to buy those as well. They're standardized so any drive can use them?

For both drives, I'm spending less than $60 each, which helps since I'm on budget.

If anyone can critique the reliability, quality, and so forth, that'd be great. Shopping list's not finalized until certain I got a great idea what I'm getting. Thanks!

Sata cables are pretty much universal, should be able to use existing. Same with power cables.

Why so small though? I just dropped a 480 in mine, since my HD was getting slow and old...Win 10 loads in 10 secs, WOWS loads about 3 times as quick.

 Best  buy has a Sandisk 250 for $74 right now....I'd look around for some sales if you're set on keeping it under $60. 

Edited by awiggin

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I've been using an SSD in my computers for the last few years.  I have no problem.  Have you tried cleaning up your old drive, de-fragging it, and getting rid of any viruses/spyware you may have?

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120? You gotta be really on a budget there. I'm using one of that size myself and I'm really regretting it...not enough space to shove in all my stuff. Just the OS takes up like a third of that already.

But if you are using it only for OS and Ships it should be fine...although I'd recommend nothing less than 256GB if you can spare the budget for it.

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Are you adding it to your pc as the OS/WOWS drive and using a standard hard drive for mass storage, or are you replacing the hard drive with the SSD? If you're replacing your existing drive with it, you'll need an adapter like this one: https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Adapter-Cable-Converter-Supports/dp/B00MYU0EAU/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1522292833&sr=8-2-spons&keywords=hard+drive+to+usb+adapter&psc=1

 

The world of warships forum probably isn't the best place to answer these kinds of questions, so poke around on youtube, reddit, and other tech forums. 

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That Toshiba drive is a waste of your money.

It's a laptop hard drive, which means that it's optimized for extended battery life, and it's only spinning at 5400 RPM. The standard speed for a desktop hard drive is 7200 RPM. This drive will perform far more slowly than you're expecting it to. Spend a couple bucks more (literally, that's all the difference it is) and get something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Deskptop-1Terabyte-32MB-64MB-Warranty/dp/B06XQSRY8X/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1522302723&sr=1-4&keywords=western+digital+black+1tb

 

Also, re: SSD's, just go straight for the gold standard: Samsung. Right now you can get an 860 EVO, 250 GB, for ~88. Probably better prices out there if you look a bit.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07864WMK8/?tag=pcpapi-20

 

These are going to serve you FAR better than the components you had selected. The difference in price is small compared against the difference in performance and storage. Even 250 is too small, really, but you can live with it. You will rapidly find that you can't live with the 120 GB drive.

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This should probably clarify a lot of the differences in capability. Short version, you're paying a little bit more, but you're getting (a) double the capacity, (b) a TON more speed for a variety of reasons (not the least of which is that samsung makes all their own chips in-house, so they don't have to go cheap on the cache, causing high initial peak speeds but crappy large-file throughput), and (c) not paying very much extra, because, again, Samsung makes all the chips (and every other component, in fact) in-house. No outside vendors needed.

 

http://ssd.userbenchmark.com/Compare/Samsung-860-Evo-250GB-vs-PNY-CS900-120GB/3949vsm175702

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First off, I assume this is for a desktop, as you mention SATA cables. The current standard is SATA III cables. Do NOT buy SATA I or SATA II cables, as they have lower transfer rates and are outdated. They can work in a pinch, but you'd be wasting the read/write potential of the SSD.


Now, with that said, onto the heart of the issue:

  • Will an SSD let Windows 10 and WoWs load faster?
    • Yes. It's about 10s from cold boot to login (assuming the Win10 Fast Boot option is enabled), and WoWs has been proven to load faster from an SSD, as well as being less laggy in the sense it can call stored assets faster for rendering/rerendering.
  • Will 120 GB be sufficient? It depends. Let's examine this in some detail.

Win10 alone can use up about 20 GB (64-bit version), and it's not recommended to have less than 10 GB of blank space in reserve for OS usage (updates, Virtual Memory, temporary files, etc). So that's 30 GB reserved for Win10 use exclusively.

Drivers for your GPU and other hardware can take up a fair bit of space over time as well; especially since NVIDIA and AMD don't usually delete the downloaded driver installers after updating, and need to be manually deleted. They also tend to store the old driver for backup in the event the new drivers don't work, so you will need to manually delete those too. So assume a 5 GB reservation for such, more if you aren't diligent in cleaning up older driver installers after updating.

Other "essential" programs can easily take up another 10 GB or more, whether it's a Word Processor suite or Photoshop + Plugins, or the Audio/Video editing equivalent. Whatever other core purposes you're using the computer for. This is assuming you don't have a second HDD or SSD for use with those programs.

WoWs uses about 35 GB of space w/ the Ultra sound pack, give or take. WoWs updates can also go up to 1 GB depending on how often you play and keep the game updated (or if it is a major patch). And those files will grow if you don't regularly clean out the Updates folder. In fact, the recent April Fools update was about 1 Gig across 3 files. So on the safe side, reserving at least 40 GB for WoWs alone is sufficient. Though if you're a heavy user of mods such as skins/voice packs/replacers/etc, those can take up more space as well. Add another 2-5 GB for reserve if you use mods, for a total of 45 GB at most.

So at worst (just OS + WoWs and core drivers), you're already using up about 80 GB on that tiny 120 GB SSD, not including any other "essential" programs. If you're keeping music/documents/photos/videos in your User account (all the "My Pictures/Videos/Documents" folders), then you'll have even less.

If you can afford 2 SSDs; get one 60 GB for the OS exclusively (and do not store too many Photos/Videos/Documents in the "My Pictures/Videos/Documents" folders), and a 120 GB or higher for your favorite or most-played games; 2 will likely max out a 120 GB fast; given most big games are pushing 40 GB just for base installation, and not including any reserve space for downloading and installing updates, which usually take up an additional 5-10 GB for first time updating.

If you cannot afford 2 separate SSDs, then get a larger SSD at minimum. 240 or better will be enough for the OS and 2, maybe 3, full games (for example, WoWs, SCII, and Overwatch), and you would just need to manage your remaining disk reserves based on cleaning up old updates, clearing out the recycle bin, and keeping most Pictures/Videos/Documents that are not immediately essential on an external storage device.


As far as SSD brands go:

Samsung is pretty much top of the line. But they command a high Premium cost. The 860 series are their current top of the lines, if I'm not misremembering. The 850s are their previous generation models. The EVOs are cheaper than the Pro series, but with shorter warranty period as well.

Crucial/Micron are great alternatives; not as lighting fast as Samsung, but solid warranties and support. Micron recently began selling their own SSDs independent of Crucial. Both are quite competitive on price/performance/quality.

Kingston (and their "Gaming HyperX")/ADATA/Silicon Power/SanDisk/Mushkin/Team Group are respectable alternatives. Often cheaper or just as competitive as Crucial/Micron, but warranties/support varies (I believe a few are rebrands of the same drive as well). I myself have used Silicon Power, Mushkin, and Kingston SSDs for budget builds as they're pretty cheap per GB, alongside the more expensive Samsung EVO series and Crucial/Micron for more serious builds.

As far as Toshiba goes; I believe their SSDs are jointly produced under the OCZ brand. They were great "gaming" level SSDs once upon a time, and are still well-rated, but I haven't heard much from their end of the SSD pool.

If looks matter more than performance (clear-panel case, only used for reading data rather than writing; or in other words, only to install games into), Kingston has the Red with black accent HyperX SSD, OCZ/Toshiba have Silver with Blue and White accent SSDs, and Team Group has Copper-colored SSDs as an option. A few others have Silver. The most common color is black/dark grey though.

Do NOT buy any of the ultra-cheap Chinese branded SSDs, unless you just like gambling with non-existent warranties/support and questionable build quality.

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Buy a 512 SSD, spend the extra you will benefit from its bigger size later

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1 hour ago, YamatoA150 said:

 

Samsung is pretty much top of the line. But they command a high Premium cost. The 860 series are their current top of the lines, if I'm not misremembering. The 850s are their previous generation models. The EVOs are cheaper than the Pro series, but with shorter warranty period as well.

 

When you say "high premium cost" you're overstating the case by a bit.

He's looking at ~50 for a 120 SSD from PNY, that's already at least one generation out of date. $88 gets you a 250 Samsung 860 EVO, $144 gets you an 850 EVO at 500 GB.

Reliability is a non-issue, as well. I've got about 10 840 Pro, 850 Evo, 850 Pro and 860 Evos installed in various workstations. Those 840's are getting pretty long in the tooth, now, and they're still moving along quite happily with no measurable degradation in performance or capacity. 2 of them are going to hit the 6-year mark in the next couple months, with HARD daily use and heavy write/rewrite cycles.

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If you go the ssd route, be sure to check the write limits, and any potential work arounds( manufacturer specific) The budget models often have low numbers (some scary low). And remember that you are using one of the overwrites each time you take an update...wows is fairly update intensive.

 

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Regarding OS, I just transitioned to an SSD but also changed to 64 bit Win 10, wow what a difference stability wise!  32 bit was seeing 3 of 9G of RAM, now I have all 9G and don’t have to restart the game after every match.

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I wouldn’t go any less than 120gb for just the system drive.

for my MacBook Air that I’m using to play wows op when I travel. I have 120gb dedicated to run Windows 10 natively.

After Windows 10, Microsoft office and wows is installed I only have 40gb remaining.  

So if all you are running is windows and warships, 120gb is fine. 

For anything else you’ll need a larger drive.  Even with a larger ssd drive, I would offload your user files (document folder, pictures and media files) to a conventional drive 

for my own Gaming PC at home, I run Windows 10 on its own 240gb SSD as the boot drive (c:)  and put all of my games (warships and tanks) on a 480GB SSD (d:) and keep all of anything extra (documents media and pictures) on a conventional 2tb hard drive(e:)

Edited by wtfovr

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If you are already running Windows 10, you don’t need to get another copy of Windows 10.  Windows will recognize that you replaced the hard drive and will activate automatically.

if you aren’t, then if you want windows 10 yes, you’ll need to purchase a new copy of Windows 10.

if your old OS works, I would not spend the money on a new OS. Just reinstall a new copy of the old OS.

if you upgrade your motherboard and/or CPU (but keep your ssd with Windows 10 from an existing system) you’ll need to purchase another copy of Windows 10.

the offer To upgrade to Windows 10 for free ended a few years ago so there are no “free” copies of Windows 10 unless you buy it with a new system.

Edited by wtfovr

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6 hours ago, LT_Rusty_SWO said:

When you say "high premium cost" you're overstating the case by a bit.

He's looking at ~50 for a 120 SSD from PNY, that's already at least one generation out of date. $88 gets you a 250 Samsung 860 EVO, $144 gets you an 850 EVO at 500 GB.

Reliability is a non-issue, as well. I've got about 10 840 Pro, 850 Evo, 850 Pro and 860 Evos installed in various workstations. Those 840's are getting pretty long in the tooth, now, and they're still moving along quite happily with no measurable degradation in performance or capacity. 2 of them are going to hit the 6-year mark in the next couple months, with HARD daily use and heavy write/rewrite cycles.

Reliability may be a non-issue for most considering it's an SSD with usually long lifespans, but it's better to shop for ones with great warranty/service should they ever need it rather than go completely cheap and not have it when they need it, unless one doesn't plan on using said SSDs for long-term storage of essential files with redundancy. I have had an 840 EVO die on me once (internal controller fried), and the warranty gave me a fresh one at no charge that's still working to this day, past the warranty.

Granted, if it's only going to be used for games and OS, sure, you can go cheap and not care about the data and just do another reinstall.

As far as costs, Samsung is still pricier than the competition, though I will concede that the prices have lowered since I last actively shopped for one (early Feb). Crucial provides a 250 for 80 USD and 500 for 130 USD respectively, with robust support while still playing in the upper end of quality and reliability in comparison.

If cost is more important, then Silicon Power offers a 240 GB and 256 GB SSD for 60 and 64 USD respectively, with other 240-256 GB SSDs hovering around that price range (on Amazon). If taking it up to 480-512 GB range, SP has a 480 for 110 USD and about 20 USD more will open up a few 500 GB SSD options.

Plenty of great options, and the prices do look better now than they did back in February (when I actually needed a new pair of SSDs :Smile_sceptic:).

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Having a budget number would help.

As others have said Samsung SSD's are very good quality. I also prefer Samsung Pro or Crucial drives for SSD and Western Digital for my HDD.

SSD prices have really dropped over the years. I think 120gb is good for an OS drive, but I would get another 250gb+ for gaming.

Other things to consider;

All SATA cables have the same form factor so they will work with any SATA drive, but some are rated for high transfer speeds. You can also get 90 deg cables depending on where your drives mount.

Look at your case, does it have mounts specifically for SSD's? If not you will need a mount like this https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817979016&cm_re=ssd_mount-_-17-979-016-_-Product

Also, check your power supply, make sure it has enough SATA power cables. Some older power supplies only have molex power connectors, if you only have molex you will need an adapter like this https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812200061&cm_re=molex_to_sata-_-12-200-061-_-Product

 

Good luck with the upgrades, having an SSD is one of biggest performance boosts you can buy for a PC.

 

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SSD memory has a limited number of write/erase/rewrite cycles. To extend the life of a drive try to keep it less than half full. Therefore, double the size of the drive you think you will need. I've found Crucial drives to be very reliable. Crucial is Micron, one of the leading OEM chip manufacturers. Many high-end RAM companies use Micron chips and then charge more for adding a few colors and fancy but useless heat fins.

I'd recommend this drive if you are on a very limited budget. The older version of the 250 GB drive has been my main drive for over 5 years now.

https://www.amazon.com/Crucial-MX500-500GB-NAND-Internal/dp/B0784SLQM6/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1522339002&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=crucial+ssd&psc=1

SATA cables are like two or three bucks.

https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-18-Inch-Cable-Locking-90-Degree/dp/B009GUXU52/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_147_bs_lp_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=WY849HCEFJYW5HXANE7Y

Edited by Snargfargle

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I have been gaming off of SSDs for years. They're wonderful. I had one fail late last year but I think that was something wrong with my computer because a standard platter HDD failed at exactly the same time. A SSD is well worth it.

I'll join the others in recommending that you spend a bit more on something bigger. 120GB is going to be a problem for your only drive unless you are playing WoWs and not much else. The OS and WoWs will eat up a good bit of space. You won't have much left for other needs. If you put any other programs or music or videos on the machine you'll run out of space in a heartbeat. I would get 240GB at absolute bare minimum. 120GB is really only acceptable in things like tablets or ultrabooks that aren't serving as your main machine, or as a secondary drive for your main machine. I have a Surface Pro 4 (not my gaming machine) and the 120GB SSD on that one filled up with zero large games on it just from the OS, music, a video or two, and apps. I've had to shunt a lot of stuff onto a MicroSD card (used as a secondary drive) and OneDrive to clear space. 

Websites like Gizmodo are very good at alerting you when Amazon is having sales on SSDs. They tend to come around every few weeks. I highly suggest waiting for a sale if you have to. Also go to Microcenter and talk to the salespeople. They are really helpful about telling customers about sales they are having that aren't well publicized. They saved me $200 and got me a better processor for my budget gaming rig I was building years ago by telling me about a package deal they were running which wasn't advertised. 

 

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2 hours ago, wtfovr said:

If you are already running Windows 10, you don’t need to get another copy of Windows 10.  Windows will recognize that you replaced the hard drive and will activate automatically.

if you aren’t, then if you want windows 10 yes, you’ll need to purchase a new copy of Windows 10.

if your old OS works, I would not spend the money on a new OS. Just reinstall a new copy of the old OS.

if you upgrade your motherboard and/or CPU (but keep your ssd with Windows 10 from an existing system) you’ll need to purchase another copy of Windows 10.

the offer To upgrade to Windows 10 for free ended a few years ago so there are no “free” copies of Windows 10 unless you buy it with a new system.

 

This is ... not entirely true.

If the motherboard doesn't change, and if it's a UEFI bios, then Windows 10 will write something to the bios. This will let the new installation recognize the board and avoid activation, buuuuuuut... Before upgrading any hardware, always make sure that you've linked that copy of Windows 10 to your Microsoft account. That way, when you sign into a fresh installation, you'll be able to automatically activate the new installation, and then it doesn't matter if you change the motherboard or CPU, and you can move a license for some particular version of Windows 10 -- home vs pro, I mean -- from one computer to another by the simple expedient of signing in with your MS account and then telling Windows to use a different license linked to your account. (The other benefit here is that it means you're no longer differentiated as a free upgrade user vs paying customer.)

Also, re: free Windows 10 Upgrade. The policy may have officially ended, but you can still do it, just not in quite the same pathway. Install with the default license key (these are easy to find online, and this is NOT piracy. It does NOT grant you any licenses, and does NOT bypass activation in any way. It is 100% legit.) Install the appropriate version, and then once you're ready to activate, use the Windows activation tool to change the license. Put in an appropriate Windows 7 key, then activate. Boom, activated. 

Again: that is not piracy. I even was able to get MS tech support to assist me with one installation I was having problems with, well past the expiration of the free upgrade offer. The activation server was kicking back my license key, and I thought they'd closed off the loophole. MS tech said that nope, the loophole was still open, but that individual key was blacklisted. Apparently it had come up in a keygen a couple years before. Didn't matter for me at the time (my Windows 7 installation was OEM on that machine) but since I saved the back panel with the sticker when the rest of the computer was trashed, I got a little cranky on finding out that it wasn't going to work. I had other spares, though, so it was okay.

 

Edited by LT_Rusty_SWO

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I've been running on SSDs for a least 5 years. Getting merely 120GB a quick path to future regret.  In addition to Amazon and Microcenter, I'd keep my eyes on what Fry's and Newegg are offering. 

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Ok, most of these replies are giving me a headache (cause new stuff, so not your fault). Here's what I've grasped so far:

1) Samsung is the best, Crucial/Micron are good alternatives, Kingston is not bad, most all others haven't kept up a decent reputation recently.

2) Now, my goal is simply SSD for gaming. Not putting an OS on it yet. When I buy a new gaming computer, then I will probably go one SSD for the OS and particular games like WOWS that benefit from the extra speed. Conventional hard drive will store word processing, casual games, everything else that doesn't need speed.

3) SSD needs around half its capacity free for normal operating, so in future, if put OS, WOWS, and whatever else, plan on getting SSD w/ double the needed space.

4)

8 hours ago, c3shooter said:

If you go the ssd route, be sure to check the write limits, and any potential work arounds( manufacturer specific) The budget models often have low numbers (some scary low). And remember that you are using one of the overwrites each time you take an update...wows is fairly update intensive.

 

Did not point this out in my OP, but very new to this stuff. Are you saying the overwrites take up space and must be manually deleted?

5)

1 hour ago, Kevs02Accord said:

Having a budget number would help.

As others have said Samsung SSD's are very good quality. I also prefer Samsung Pro or Crucial drives for SSD and Western Digital for my HDD.

SSD prices have really dropped over the years. I think 120gb is good for an OS drive, but I would get another 250gb+ for gaming.

Other things to consider;

All SATA cables have the same form factor so they will work with any SATA drive, but some are rated for high transfer speeds. You can also get 90 deg cables depending on where your drives mount.

Look at your case, does it have mounts specifically for SSD's? If not you will need a mount like this https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817979016&cm_re=ssd_mount-_-17-979-016-_-Product

Also, check your power supply, make sure it has enough SATA power cables. Some older power supplies only have molex power connectors, if you only have molex you will need an adapter like this https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812200061&cm_re=molex_to_sata-_-12-200-061-_-Product

 

Good luck with the upgrades, having an SSD is one of biggest performance boosts you can buy for a PC.

 

I want to keep the whole upgrading budget around $200 max, but can add another $100 since got $102 Amazon GC balance. Should be able to provide more details on the case and power supply when my younger brother (who's built his own computer) can open it up and take a look. Never done this before, so not daring to do anything.

 

6)

40 minutes ago, Snargfargle said:

SSD memory has a limited number of write/erase/rewrite cycles. To extend the life of a drive try to keep it less than half full. Therefore, double the size of the drive you think you will need. I've found Crucial drives to be very reliable. Crucial is Micron, one of the leading OEM chip manufacturers. Many high-end RAM companies use Micron chips and then charge more for adding a few colors and fancy but useless heat fins.

I'd recommend this drive if you are on a very limited budget. The older version of the 250 GB drive has been my main drive for over 5 years now.

https://www.amazon.com/Crucial-MX500-500GB-NAND-Internal/dp/B0784SLQM6/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1522339002&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=crucial+ssd&psc=1

SATA cables are like two or three bucks.

https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-18-Inch-Cable-Locking-90-Degree/dp/B009GUXU52/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_147_bs_lp_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=WY849HCEFJYW5HXANE7Y

I'll bookmark that, got some Amazon GC balance from my Swagbucks/Irazoo/Bing Rewards accounts, it'll save me some money. Though as I understand it, SSD will need SATA cables and a power cable--and those two are sold separately, according to my brother.

7)

39 minutes ago, Tzarevitch said:

I have been gaming off of SSDs for years. They're wonderful. I had one fail late last year but I think that was something wrong with my computer because a standard platter HDD failed at exactly the same time. A SSD is well worth it.

I'll join the others in recommending that you spend a bit more on something bigger. 120GB is going to be a problem for your only drive unless you are playing WoWs and not much else. The OS and WoWs will eat up a good bit of space. You won't have much left for other needs. If you put any other programs or music or videos on the machine you'll run out of space in a heartbeat. I would get 240GB at absolute bare minimum. 120GB is really only acceptable in things like tablets or ultrabooks that aren't serving as your main machine, or as a secondary drive for your main machine. I have a Surface Pro 4 (not my gaming machine) and the 120GB SSD on that one filled up with zero large games on it just from the OS, music, a video or two, and apps. I've had to shunt a lot of stuff onto a MicroSD card (used as a secondary drive) and OneDrive to clear space. 

Websites like Gizmodo are very good at alerting you when Amazon is having sales on SSDs. They tend to come around every few weeks. I highly suggest waiting for a sale if you have to. Also go to Microcenter and talk to the salespeople. They are really helpful about telling customers about sales they are having that aren't well publicized. They saved me $200 and got me a better processor for my budget gaming rig I was building years ago by telling me about a package deal they were running which wasn't advertised. 

 

Gotcha. Think my approach for now is wait for brother to come by and see what room's available in case. I'll also take some pictures of the inside to show Micro Center's staff, see if they can be reasonably certain my rig can take an SSD.

 

It sounds going for a 240GB should be the minimum.

 

Now hard drive, was planning on a 1 TB minimum size, but apparently Toshiba's meant more for laptops. WD brand is more recommended?

Yes, I've kept a regular defragging utility going once a week on my hard drive, but it's 4 years old. Believe the slow on it is simply normal wear and tear. Rest of my rig's working fine.

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Reymu, others can chime in if they have ever done this, but the OS is the first thing you always want to put on a SSD.  I don't think simply having the game on the SSD and your OS on a regular HD is going to improve your PC much, if at all, as the game needs the OS in order to run.  Someone can correct me if I'm wrong on that, but that is my understanding.

So I would recommend first and foremost to put your OS on the SSD, then the main game you play.

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47 minutes ago, DreadRaybo said:

Reymu, others can chime in if they have ever done this, but the OS is the first thing you always want to put on a SSD.  I don't think simply having the game on the SSD and your OS on a regular HD is going to improve your PC much, if at all, as the game needs the OS in order to run.  Someone can correct me if I'm wrong on that, but that is my understanding.

So I would recommend first and foremost to put your OS on the SSD, then the main game you play.

What happens if the SSD eats the OS? :3

You have a fair point since I was planning to replace the hard drive anyway...from what others are saying here, Windows 10 OS has a signature so that it doesn't need to be bought again if hard replacement. I was assuming that if stick w/ 8.1, I'd need to buy another license, right?

 

33 minutes ago, driedjello said:

just for your consideration, M.2 drives are awesome if your MB supports them.  

M.2 drives? You're talking to a dude that's never dabbled in various computer parts.

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