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GreyFox78659

N1K1-Jb 1/48 model build

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Ok I bought a model kit on sale I though what the heck I will share the build progress here.

BTW I suck at building models so don’t expect much. I just love building them and then failing hard at painting them.  

Here are some past painting failures. 

 

FF45B772-3870-4D58-BEFE-C1084D473DB8.jpeg

8AB0E5C5-D255-4E5A-A52A-DFC26539DFB9.jpeg

Edited by GreyFox78659
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Cant wait to see it.

I have a soft spot for the Niki since she was on of my favorite rides back in my old Air Warrior days. Man that was a long time ago LOL!

Good luck.

Edited by Slyv

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13 minutes ago, GreyFox78659 said:

AB16F95B-ADB9-4624-90E7-14C1901E6DA8.jpeg

 

Oooo good choice~ Nice to see someone that isn't a native taking interest in our planes! 

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1 hour ago, Incendiary_Tanker said:

 

Oooo good choice~ Nice to see someone that isn't a native taking interest in our planes! 

When I was in high school I was a member of the International Plastic Modelers Association.

It gave me the ability to put 3D objects in my hands from history.

I loved the Nakajima KI-84 and the Kyushu J7W.

My favorite WWII plane of all time is P47D  thunderbolt.

Models built from WWII era : P47D, B17G, Tiger tank and Nashorn.

In the late '70's Japanese model kits were priced very high, but quality was worth it if you had money to spend.

 

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2 hours ago, GreyFox78659 said:

Ok I bought a model kit on sale I though what the heck I will share the build progress here.

BTW I suck at building models so don’t expect much. I just love building them and then failing hard at painting them.  

Here are some past painting failures. 

 

FF45B772-3870-4D58-BEFE-C1084D473DB8.jpeg

8AB0E5C5-D255-4E5A-A52A-DFC26539DFB9.jpeg

Get spray gun and compressor. Even if you use the cans of compressed air, the results are far better than hand painting.

Don't knock yourself down, it' hard to get the painting down to a looks good point.

If you insist on handpainting, thin down the paint a little and do 2 coats.

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7 hours ago, Incendiary_Tanker said:

 

Oooo good choice~ Nice to see someone that isn't a native taking interest in our planes! 

Not just planes ships too. I build a fleet of 1/700 IJN ships but they were destroyed in a fire.

Edited by GreyFox78659

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6 hours ago, dEsTurbed1 said:

Get spray gun and compressor. Even if you use the cans of compressed air, the results are far better than hand painting.

Don't knock yourself down, it' hard to get the painting down to a looks good point.

If you insist on handpainting, thin down the paint a little and do 2 coats.

I have been toying with getting an airbrush might do it as I want to repaint those models as well.

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For best results, paint BEFORE assembly.  Much easier to mask and avoid over-spray.

I strongly second the recommendation of an airbrush and a little compressor.  Airbrushes you can spend as much or as little as you want but figure $50 for a decent one.  You can get a quite sufficient compressor for <$100 - even a pancake compressor from Harbor Freight for that much is overkill.  And as mentioned, even canned air is a short-term solution.

 

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17 hours ago, dEsTurbed1 said:

When I was in high school I was a member of the International Plastic Modelers Association.

It gave me the ability to put 3D objects in my hands from history.

I loved the Nakajima KI-84 and the Kyushu J7W.

My favorite WWII plane of all time is P47D  thunderbolt.

Models built from WWII era : P47D, B17G, Tiger tank and Nashorn.

In the late '70's Japanese model kits were priced very high, but quality was worth it if you had money to spend.

 

Hasegawa and Tamiya are still the gold standard in models. Though the Chinese makers through Trumpeter and Dragon are catching up.

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<G> 

Ah, you can still paint assembled, but it's tough to get into the cockpit, engine cowling, landing gear spaces.  Also, when you leave the parts on the tree to paint, you're not getting oil from your skin on the parts, which can make a difference to how the final surface looks.  For that reason, I spray a light coat of primer on the whole tree(s) before applying color.

What paints you got?  I love Floquil.  Tamiya is good too.  Testors is okay.

 

(Actually, some camo patterns were applied without partial disassembly, so overspray is actually correct.  That's kind of an advanced technique, though, as is applying a final wash to highlight things like seams and rivets.  http://cs.finescale.com/fsm/general_discussion/f/9/t/169610.aspx )

 

 

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On 1/22/2018 at 11:01 PM, iDuckman said:

<G> 

Ah, you can still paint assembled, but it's tough to get into the cockpit, engine cowling, landing gear spaces.  Also, when you leave the parts on the tree to paint, you're not getting oil from your skin on the parts, which can make a difference to how the final surface looks.  For that reason, I spray a light coat of primer on the whole tree(s) before applying color.

What paints you got?  I love Floquil.  Tamiya is good too.  Testors is okay.

 

(Actually, some camo patterns were applied without partial disassembly, so overspray is actually correct.  That's kind of an advanced technique, though, as is applying a final wash to highlight things like seams and rivets.  http://cs.finescale.com/fsm/general_discussion/f/9/t/169610.aspx )

 

 

I exclusively use Tamiya. I don’t do interiors I prefer to use a blackout method to canopy windows. Saves me time on something I never liked doing mainly cockpits.

Washes are something I just learn how to use so yes I need to get some IJN green and see what wash goes well with it. Thinking light grey.

Edited by GreyFox78659

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It's a fair compromise.  I've always found cockpits a PITA, though they do look so good when you get them right.  The interior spaces like the landing gear bays can be super-detailed, but I generally just paint them the interior green and let them go.  (I know a guy here in town that casts super-detailed metal landing gear, with the hydraulic tubing and everything.  I know, massive overkill; but they look so good!)

If you have a chance, try Floquil.  They use a super-fine colorant that lets the carrier be quite thin while getting good opacity.  Even with a brush the surface smooths out and dries very thin and flat.  And they take considerable pride in the color accuracy of their military colors. 

 

Looking forward to the next update!  I miss my models.

 

ARRGGHH!!!  Testors (may they burn in hell) discontinued in 2013 the Floquil (solvent), Polyscale (acrylic military colors), Pactra, and another line of paints.  Sitck with Tamiya and tell Testors to insert where the sun don't shine!

I suspect this has something to do with the xylene solvent and "Climate Change".  :cap_rambo:

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39 minutes ago, iDuckman said:

It's a fair compromise.  I've always found cockpits a PITA, though they do look so good when you get them right.  The interior spaces like the landing gear bays can be super-detailed, but I generally just paint them the interior green and let them go.  (I know a guy here in town that casts super-detailed metal landing gear, with the hydraulic tubing and everything.  I know, massive overkill; but they look so good!)

If you have a chance, try Floquil.  They use a super-fine colorant that lets the carrier be quite thin while getting good opacity.  Even with a brush the surface smooths out and dries very thin and flat.  And they take considerable pride in the color accuracy of their military colors. 

 

Looking forward to the next update!  I miss my models.

 

ARRGGHH!!!  Testors (may they burn in hell) discontinued in 2013 the Floquil (solvent), Polyscale (acrylic military colors), Pactra, and another line of paints.  Sitck with Tamiya and tell Testors to insert where the sun don't shine!

I suspect this has something to do with the xylene solvent and "Climate Change".  :cap_rambo:

I use their glue and nothing else.

Yeah I get dirty looks from the local hobby shop owner because I don’t buy those detail items just kits, glue, and paint

Edited by GreyFox78659

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As for the glue, instead of the gloppy stuff in the tube, I use the clear liquid type in a bottle.  The cool thing about it is that you can use a medical syringe and needle to apply.  It doesn't affect the plastic of the syringe or clog the needle.  Hold the two parts together, feed some glue from the unseen side, hold for a bit, and a clean seam!

 

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I love painting planes! I mentioned in another post before I'm currently working on a little baby Spitfire in my spare time. There is something weirdly adorable about mini plane models

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10 hours ago, WolfofWarship said:

I love painting planes! I mentioned in another post before I'm currently working on a little baby Spitfire in my spare time. There is something weirdly adorable about mini plane models

Well I am priming this one and I went back and bought a J2M Raiden built it, and I am priming that one as well.

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On 1/24/2018 at 6:42 PM, iDuckman said:

As for the glue, instead of the gloppy stuff in the tube, I use the clear liquid type in a bottle.  The cool thing about it is that you can use a medical syringe and needle to apply.  It doesn't affect the plastic of the syringe or clog the needle.  Hold the two parts together, feed some glue from the unseen side, hold for a bit, and a clean seam!

 

Yeah I am a bit old fashioned I prefer the tube. 

Also don’t read anything thing into the red eyes and stoned expression on my face.

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Point.  I kinda like the fumes too.

 

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This is the last model I finished.

Tamiya's 1/350 Fletcher, with Alliance Model Works 5" Turrets, & Gold Metal Models photo etch sheet.

Im getting close to finishing the IL-2 in the background, though I haven't been working on it much lately.

20160629_180726.jpg

20160629_180845.jpg

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