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Found 11 results

  1. So I've been grinding the seattle for a little now and I struggle with positioning in her. I know I am supposed to "hump" islands but I find that in order to get to islands close enough to do damage to the enemy at high tiers where range is so great I often will get detected and then be walloped for half at least half my health. I dont want to move up to Wooster until I feel like I am better with the seattle as I dont want to be a drag on my team. PS I felt much more comfortable being able to position and causing damage to other ships in Helena (which i love so much) and Cleveland. I'm pretty sure this has to do with them being smaller hull ships and that the ships I faced had less armor so the 152s had more bounce to the ounce. Any tips would be greatly helpful I just dont seem to do as well in her on the TX maps. Thanks
  2. Ares1967

    Struck by Stupid...

    So I'm buying all the T9 and T10 ships I have unlocked for the Snowflake event. For some reason I click Battle and insta drop into a T10 on Okinawa. Seattle with Zero pnt Capt, no camo, no modules installed, no premium consumables. Good green team, bad choices and aim on the red team... Ima go buy a lottery ticket.
  3. BladedPheonix

    Seattle/ Worcester MCAA question

    Howdy captains! So I'm almost finished on my Seattle grind and I'm trying to figure out the best perk set up. I've basically narrowed it down to MCAA or stealth. Though seeing I already have both my Desmoin with full DPM build and my Salem with stealth/radar build, I kind of want to shake the box up a bit with "Wooshster" and make it a complete AA cruiser. My only worry is the perk doesn't work on the 152mm guns. can anyone vouch for picking MCAA for Seattle/Worcester? or should i pick something else? I want to be able to help my team climb higher, not drag them down! hence why I'm asking for advice. anyways, until next time, I'll C'ya on the Sea!
  4. TheGreatBlasto

    Seattle Guns

    Ok, I just got the Seattle on Monday and I can't hit anything with it. It's fully upgraded with the 18.2km gun range. I had a challenge learning how to aim with the Atlanta's guns but this is far worse. Should I stick to targets under 12 km instead of shooting at max range? For now, the Seattle is relegated to coop games. Any tips?
  5. TheGreatBlasto

    Sunday Nights are the Worst

    This claim is based on a year's worth of data. What's made tonight an extra special nightmare is that suddenly I can't hit anything in my new Seattle with a half-trained captain and about 2 hours ago RNG destroyed my gun accuracy. This afternoon I couldn't miss in the Seattle. I have to find something else to do on Sunday nights. It's just too painful.
  6. The need to hump islands always irks me as a requirement to play USN light cruisers. So while I was grinding down the cruiser lines an experiment was conducted on a different play style. The result shows that the alternative play style is viable. The alternative play style suggest is simply, not hump islands. Using the great concealment of USN cruisers to its fullest advantage. Using Seattle as an example, at full concealment the detection range of the ship is a mere 9.37 km. Not only the detection range is lower than any ship that can pose serious threats to Seattle. The range is also lower than the radar rage (9.45 km). This means that Seattle can always spot any ship that can kill her with artillery first and also can react to unspotted underage botes with proper radar usage. This is a powerful combination open to exploitation, especially open to exploitation in OPEN WATER (scary I know). In comparison, cruisers such as Zao or Hindenburg have at least 1 km more in detection range and thus can be easily avoided by the stealthy USN Cruisers if required. The low detection range allows the ships to closely support friendly DDs fighting for objective at the start the match. It also allows the ships not to be restricted to map features and be very unpredictable during the match and can surprise opponents. This alternative play style requires constant vigilance in regard to all the enemies's LoS and track any potential spotter at all time. It is not as easy as just sit behind a rock bow on and holding down the mouse button, but it sure is hella more fun. The Build for Seattle is here (ship and cpt): http://bit.ly/2K1r1y4 The flow of the battle is generally the following: 1. match starts, move with your friendly DD into key areas (obj or choke), stay close with the forward DD but not so close that you are the one being spotted first by red DDs. To achieve this, it is important to know the camo values of your own DD as well as any potential red DDs coming your way. You also should keep in mind enemy fast ship's camo ratings, such as cruisers, so you can deduce if the enemy DDs are being supported or is alone. 2. Once friendly DD spots enemy DDs, turn, mid turn, open fire on enemy DDs, do as much damage as you can while the turn is on going, then once the 180's complete, stop firing and go back to stealth. If you are a good marks man, you should have completely surprise against red DDs, 2 or 3 salvos is enough to cripple any DDs within 9.5 km of you and your friendly DDs and other ships can do the rest. - if the enemy DD is unsupported or supported by light ships, press on with your friendly DD even closer, use your radar and hydro to kill the enemy DDs outright. - you will take damage doing this, but your HP really doesn't matter in fact lower HP helps to boost your DPM with AR, find out why below. 3. if enemy capital ships are spotted, re-stealth, and move back to a position that's at least 15km away, with plotting room module the ship can achieve 18.22km firing range. A very comfortable range to harrass all BBs and camping cruisers with very little risk to yourself. At more than 15 km range, incoming shell travel time will be > than your rudder turn and with engine module equipped > your acceleration time. It means that you can comfortably dodge incoming AP shells, even if you are broadside on. The chance to get hit in the citadel, one shotted or even hitting you at all is EXTREMELY low, if you are vigilant enough to keep track of incoming shells and potential capital ships with LoS. Tried using both engine module and rudder shift, the better acceleration provided by engine module is far better than decrease in rudder shift time in this context. 4. Set everything on fire. This is where the fun begins. You should have longer range than almost all other island humpers, and at long range your shells will drop straight down, and enemy campers will have no where to hide, no rock can protect them from your sky shells. Even the ones that can match your range (like Worcester), since they are humping islands and thus stationary, you will land more hits on them than they do to you. That is if they can see you in the first place, because you've routed or killed their DD in step 1 & 2. If there are enemy BBs in key positions, such as a Yamato bow on holding down a flank, harass them and force them to move. If there are cruisers holding down a position behind an island, force them to move with your sky shells. The beauty with 18.22 km range is that you can support other key areas on the map more easily. - keep an eye out on random smokes around the map, you can put them between you and potential enemy spotters and you can remain stealthed while still firing in open water. This is easier said than done, and really requires eyes to be fixated on the minimap. But once if you master it, WoWS in its entirety is your oyster. My DD experience helps greatly in this regard. - also calculate where you can sail and put potential map features to their fullest LoS blocking potential. It doesn't mean hump an island, but simply put it between you and any potential spotters. - keep scanning all enemy ships, especially capital ships. The reason is to find opportunities to fire without getting any retaliation. For example, a Yamato needs almost a min to turn their turrets, so if you surprise one from opposite direction of their guns, you can just sit there for a min and do whatever without any risk of retaliation. 18 in guns can't do nothing if they are not aiming at you. - the general idea in this phase is to force enemies out of favorable positions. If they choose to stay, with IFHE and great rate of fire and fire chance. You can easily help to destroy even a Yamato or Kurfurst. - you are NOT kiting. Kiting is firing while running away, if you do that in light cruisers you will have a bad time, because you'll still be constantly detected and even from your stern BBs can punch clean through into your citadel. It is "hit and run", once you scanned enemies with LoS to you and determined the chance of being focused is low, let it rip. Once enemies start to target you, re-stealth and relocate. While relocation move to a direction opposite of where the enemies are pointing their guns. Then fire again. If no one bothers you, just keep firing. If you are firing from 15-18 km range, chances are you will be ignored because no one likes to miss their salvos on a dodging cruisers that far away. So you weave in and out of enemy LoS as well as weaving between several positions. 5. Mop up, all remaining enemies near the end of a match should all have vastly inferior camo values. You can pick your targets at will, hit and run, or sneak up and open with a broadside of AP at 9 km against other cruisers. The few, if at all, surviving DDs can only spot you if they enter your radar range. So if you are stealthed, but they suddenly spotted and can't see anything, that means a DD is within your radar range. Your hydro will also make torpedo attacks pointless and is a great alternative to detect enemies doing going around the rosy near islands. This means by yourself alone you can zone out and pick apart any surviving enemy ships. People should try some alternative ways to play light cruisers, especially the more experienced among you. Since this strategy really requires the player to have good knowledge of potential enemies as well as maps. As the pictures above suggest, this play style is tried on Baltimore, Seattle, and the new Cleveland.
  7. Let's compare Seattle and Cleveland (I'm assuming the upgrade modules match my Buffalo), assuming full modification loadouts. FIREPOWER: PURE DOWNGRADE "Same ROF, MUCH WORSE Turret Rotation (18 seconds to 22.5)" This is a clear invitation to take "-15% turret turn time for +5% reload time" in slot 2 to try and fail to compensate, and/or fill slot 6 with "ROF all the way, to hell with turret rotation" in slot which kills your ability to brawl, to easily switch targets, or perhaps to achieve such basic tasks as keeping guns on target during a hard turn (for comparison, Fiji with 25 second turret time cannot keep guns on target in a hard turn, Seattle has 22.5 base and the higher ROF makes that traverse time go up 13%, which is about enough to start losing track of targets in a hard turn at mid or close ranges (Fiji turns faster which results in losing track of targets at ANY range in a hard turn) and given the huge thin citadel... Oh, and Seattle has the same range a tier higher (and the B hull magically decreases the range FOR WHATEVER REASON). If you're telling us to use Slot 6 on gun range to compensate for longer battle ranges... the DPS doesn't change at all from the Tier 8! (Which reminds me, Ibuki is power-creeped well beyond oblivion, 4.5 ROF would be quite reasonable for Ibuki with its fewer guns than Zao and paper armor, among other buffs!) EDIT: Was just informed the turret arcs are grossly inferior to Cleveland, making this a clear DOWNGRADE instead of NEUTRAL even with stacked equipment. EDIT 2: I assumed the top hull range drop is a bug, not a feature. If it's a feature, well... DURABILITY: GROSS DOWNGRADE 36900 to 43600 HP, not the worst... Seattle is a huge target compared to Cleveland, and the plating is the same 25mm. ENORMOUS CITADEL IN ARMOR VIEWER LOLWUT? EDIT 2: I have just been informed the Seattle belt is thinner than Cleveland's. I have confirmed with in-game armour viewer that Seattle has 102mm belt over about twice the length and height of Cleveland's 127mm belt's above-water portion. So it is not only a larger target but will always be penned by 8-inch or larger fire unless at autobounce (45+ degrees for non-USN 8" and 60+ for USN 8") up to something like 14km where the shell plunging angle is what makes the armour usable at high but not quite autobounce angles. AGILITY/CAMO: PURE DOWNGRADE 660m -> 750m turn radius, MUCH slower. 7.2 -> 8.7 seconds rudder shift. 10.7 -> 12.2 base detection by sea (I have no camo on my Cleveland and picked IFHE for 10th point, so can compare base number with Seattle) 32.5 knots -> 33 knots. Much improvement, such wow! CONCLUSION: In almost any scenario, replacing a Seattle with a Cleveland is likely no significant loss (Edit 2: a great gain) for the team. This is contrary to, say, replacing any Tier 9 battleship with a Tier 8 of the same line. WG, it's ONE extra mod slot you get from going from Tier 8 to 9, and that's spent on trying (and failing) to make firepower fully equal to the Cleveland, and takes up mod slot 2 as well... And would someone explain to me why the devs seem to think that building a dual-purpose turret is useful when it's TOO SLOW TO TRACK AIRCRAFT? 22.5 second turn time for 180 degrees is NOT "dual-purpose", not even CLOSE! And the USN designers would have known this! Do we have to chalk it up to another "Russian experts" issue? What Seattle needs to go from GARBAGE to MEHBOTE: Reload from 6.5 to 5.5 seconds, turret traverse from 22.5 to 18 seconds, Armour belt from 102mm to 127mm or more, and absolutely not less than Cleveland max range (EDIT: and gun arcs) before modifications. It would serve as a sensible stepping stone to Worcester's 4.6 second reload with that, despite the terribad quality of life in other regards compared to Cleveland. To make Seattle a GUDBOTE? Any two of the following (starting from 5.5 second reload, 18 second turret traverse and 127mm belt as described above): 5 second reload (Worcester has same gun count and 4.6 second reload, in comically faster turrets) OR 7.5-second rudder shift AND <730m turn radius OR 11.5 km base detection Another way to make Seattle GUDBOTE? Replace it with a Fargo i.e. slightly modified Cleveland that's more agile (built to be more stable, particularly when heeling in turns), has slightly more historical max displacement (a bit more HP, magnified by the "built to be more resilient" fact) with the reload buttered down to 6 seconds from 6.5. THAT would be a worthy Tier 9, and the current Seattle can become a premium instead, as a never-built design study should be when a suitable Real Ship is available. Then put Seattle at Tier 7 with current stats as a premium. That would be a Gudbote despite being a huge pinata even at Tier 7.
  8. When you initial plan no longer works what do you do? You reposition and find another location to win the game. Those of you struggling with the Seattle may find this useful. Or you can Free Exp past it, but at least watch this video first.
  9. TheUrticantUrge

    Seattle B Hull

    I've played the Seattle for a few matches now and really enjoy it. However I just researched the B Hull, and I;m left confused as to why you lose .9 km gun range when upgrading the HULL. Your guns gain a slight buff to maximum dispersion in exchange for the nearly kilometer range difference. By slight I mean 7 meters, that's it. Still enjoying the ship, just wondering if there is a reason to a range decrease. Good luck and fair seas! -TheUrticantUrge o7
  10. I talk Seattle today, and to a lesser extent Cleveland. These two ships in my opinion represent the worst grind in both the CA and CL lines. They aren’t bad ships, but they are prone to boring gameplay. I’m not an island camping fan. But with short range and weak armor, you really have no choice.
  11. Vagitron

    Seattle B Hull

    Does anyone know offhand if it is intentional or an oversight that the B Hull on Seattle drops gun range one kilometer lower than A hull?
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