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Found 102 results

  1. DD Manifesto

    Destroyers, or the DDs, have a set of very specific tasks during each phase of a match. A match is separated into three parts, the beginning, the mid game, and the late game. Depending on the phase, a destroyer player must perform certain tasks. 1. Beginning Destroyers must utilize their camo values to advance as far as safely possible and spot the enemies. This allows other players on the DD's team to make informed decisions on their position. This also helps the DD to contest objectives effectively. A DD without LoS to the enemy is a useless DD in this phase. 2. Mid Game Destroyers in this phase takes on the role of area denial. Staying alive is the priority. By simply staying alive, and optimally undetected, a DD can zone out the entire enemy team from key areas of the map. In this phase, a DD should also position itself for effective torpedo salvos. Since torpedo reload is extremely long, staying alive increases the chance a DD can use its torpedo armament, thus, maximizing its impact on the match. This is also the phase where the DD has to decide if the smoke is used on the team, or itself. 3. Late Game Point elimination is the word in this phase. Enemy team should be scattered and BBs should already been separated from their escort cruisers and destroyers. This is the phase damage can be easily farmed by single out a BB, for example, and torp it to death. Because torpedoes, the great equalizer, have potential to sink any ship in a single salvo, DDs should select their targets carefully for point elimination. Sacrificing themselves in suicide runs, if needed. The general idea behind the flow of matches for any DD is to stay alive, stay in LoS of the enemies and spotting them, and to eliminate vulnerable targets. Decisiveness is required for any DDs, but overly aggressive at the beginning is never the optimal way to win.
  2. The following catastrophe is what happens when an average player tries to make a guide. Take everything I say with a grain of salt. Right, Mutsuki. A ship almost universally derided (and rightfully so) as one of the worst ships in the game. Yet somehow... She became my most played ship. So, 150 battles later, I'm writing a guide for the new player who has to slog through this ship like so many others have before. Super Quick Condensed History: The twelve Mutsuki-class destroyers were built from 1924 to 1927. They were an improved version of the previous Kamikaze-class destroyers, introducing triple 24" torpedo tubes. All twelve ships were named for traditional poetic names of the months of the year of the Lunar Calendar. Throughout World War II, the ships received different modifications, such as the loss of one or two guns and torpedo mounts, providing more deck space for cargo and AA, facilitating their role in "Tokyo Express" transport missions. None of the ships survived World War II. Survivability: 9 500 (stock) 11 300 (upgraded) hitpoints Upgraded, Mutsuki has 11 300 hitpoints. This is far on the low side for a tier 5 destroyer, only more than Minekaze and Kamikaze (+clones), and equal with T-22. Speed and Maneuverability: Maximum speed: 37.5 knots Turning circle: 550m Rudder shift: (3.2 stock/2.1 B-hull) For a tier 5 destroyer, you're middle of the pack. You're half a knot faster than Nicholas, Gremyaschy, Jianwei, and you're quite a bit faster than T-22. You're slower than Minekaze, Kamikaze, and far slower than Podvoisky. As for maneuverability, you're equal to Minekaze and better than all the other tier 5 destroyers. Realistically, you're second among the tier fives because Minekaze's higher top speed means that Minekaze will be able to complete her turn quicker than Mutsuki. Gun Armament: 2x1 120mm/45 3rd Year Type (stock) 2x1 120mm/45 3rd Year Type Fancy Mount (upgraded) Range: 8.1km (stock) 8.9 km (upgraded) Your gun armament is pathetic. That's the only way to describe your guns. Stock, Mutsuki has weaker gun power than Isokaze a tier lower, with the same fire rate (12 seconds), more AP alpha (2000 vs 1800), and a higher shell velocity (825m vs 660m), but only half the gun mounts and a slower turret traverse. You would struggle to best a tier 1 in a gunfight. You can't keep your guns on target during a turn. Simply put, your stock guns are useless. Luckily, there's hope! You can upgrade your 120mm/45 3rd Year Type guns to... 120mm/45 3rd Year Type guns. "What's the difference", I hear you ask. Well, the guns are now mounted in large late-war mounts. Your gun power, in my opinion, now better than Minekaze and Kamikaze. Better, however, doesn't mean good, or passable. Your gun power is still bad. It's just less bad now. Your rate of fire more than doubles, from 12 seconds to a brilliant (for an IJN DD anyway) 5.5 seconds. This is the third fastest out of any Japanese destroyer, only behind Akizuki and Harekaze, although Yugumo and Shimakaze can still attain a higher rate of fire after upgrades due to the high tier reload modification. Your turret traverse increases as well, from 25 seconds to 18 seconds. This is now enough to keep your guns on target even during a close range knife fight, and faster than almost any other Japanese destroyer. The guns are slightly more accurate now as well, from 82m to 76m maximum dispersion. These guns, individually, don't look half bad, don't they? So, what's the problem? Well, you still only have a grand total of two guns. Mutsuki has the dishonour of having the fewest number of guns on any ship in the game other than aircraft carriers. They also have meh gun arcs forward but pretty good arcs to the rear. Discounting a low health destroyer, the only ships at your tier you can hope to defeat barring a lucky torpedo strike will be: Minekaze and Kamikaze: very poor turret traverse means that you can defeat them in a knife fight with your superior turret traverse. Watch out for torpedoes, especially Minekaze's fast loading fish. Podvoisky and Gremyaschy: poor turret traverse that cannot keep up with quick maneuvers means that you can defeat them in a knife fight with your superior turret traverse. Watch for high alpha potential of 130mm guns and torpedoes. T-22: pitiful gun power due to weak 105mm guns and German HE. Watch for high rate of fire and torpedoes. Against Nicholas or Jianwei you may as well not even try. The best choice when up against another full health destroyer will almost always be to pop smoke and run away. Torpedo Armament: 2x3 Type 8 mod. 3 torpedoes Right, we're getting into the meat of the matter. These torpedoes will form the bulk of your damage numbers. They have 8km of range and a 73 second reload. They offer 14 600 damage and make their way towards victims targets at a reasonably quick speed of 63 knots. Pretty good, eh? These torps starting to make you wonder why this ship is so hated? Well, here's why. First off, you have two triple mounts, rather than three twin mounts like Minekaze or Kamikaze. This means that they have a longer reload than twin mounts. Also, there will be larger gaps between torpedoes when you launch. You also have less freedom with torpedo usage. In Isokaze or Minekaze, you can launch four torpedoes and keep two for emergencies, or use them to cover more ground. You can't do that as effectively with Mutsuki. This is the first Japanese destroyer torpedo to be hit with the longer detection ranges common among Japanese ships, with 1.6km surface detection as compared to 1.4km surface detection or lower compared to other tier 5 destroyers. Anti-aircraft Armament: 6x2 25mm: 30dps @ 3.1km (stock) 4x1 25mm, 6x3 25mm, 2x1 120mm: 44 dps @ 3.1km 6 dps @ 5 km -- 50dps total (upgraded) You know, there is a reason two of Mutsuki's main guns were removed. That reason is to cram as much AA as possible on the ship. For a tier 5 destroyer, your AA isn't half bad. This is one dps better than Nicholas, and while Nicholas gets defensive fire, you can bring all your DPS to bear at a longer range than Nicholas can. Only T-22 has more raw DPS. Your upgraded guns are dual purpose, which was why they gained all that traverse and fire rate. One slight problem, though. Your 120mm guns reach out to 5km. Your air detection range is 3.1km. This means that you will need to turn your AA off (press P to turn AA on and off) to keep stealth until aircraft come within AA range, where you can let loose and watch planes fall (slowly perhaps, but they will, which is already better than a lot of other destroyers). These four 25mm triple mounts replace two of your 120mm guns Concealment: 6.2km surface detection 3.1km air detection 2.2 smoke firing detection You are really stealthy. Really, really stealthy. You can creep undetected to fantastic positions to launch torpedoes at the edge of stealth. You can keep other destroyers lit while staying in stealth yourself. When fully rigged for stealth with concealment expert and camo, you will have 5.4km surface detection and 2.8km air detection. You are stealthier than all except for Minekaze and Kamikaze, which match your detection. This will give you enough stealth to contest caps because you will be able to spot destroyers entering it to give you enough time to run away (except for Minekaze+Kamikaze, but let's be honest, they're not going to want to gunfight anymore than you do). Make sure to equip camo, any camo that offers a concealment boost. Captain Loadout and Upgrades (First 10 points): For one point skills, I recommend Priority Target, so you know how many players want you at the bottom of the ocean. For a second point skill, I recommend Last Stand, basically a standard skill for destroyers, because of how easily your rudder and engines are knocked out. Torpedo Armament Expertise to reduce your torpedo reload to 65.7 seconds is probably the best skill for three points, because at tier 5 it's unlikely that the extra consumables offered by Superintendent will be put in use often. Survivability Expert probably isn't needed because that's more needed to survive gunfights, something you should do your best to avoid. For four points. Concealment Expert is a no brainer. For your first upgrade slot, I recommend Main Armaments Mod. 1 to make your torpedo mounts more durable. For your second slot, Propulsion Modification 1 because while you are still reasonably maneuverable with Last Stand and a damaged rudder, you will take a rather big hit in speed. Aiming Systems Modification is the only real choice for slot three, unless you want to set up an AA troll build. Signal Flags: Sierra Mike to boost your speed to 39.4 knots Juliet Charlie flags to remove the chance of detonation Juliet Whisky Unaone to improve your flooding chances November Foxtrot to improve your consumable reload time November Echo Setteseven if you really want to be an AA troll that badly Conclusion: Mutsuki is a ship that will teach you to not pick fights with other ships unless you're sure you can win and to stealth torp (if you don't already know that's launching torpedoes from outside your detection range. Turn on the detection rings on the minimap). The guns are individually fine but are handicapped by having only two guns and poor forward firing arcs. The torpedoes have large detection ranges but otherwise aren't bad. Your AA is decent enough and might keep a low tier aircraft carrier off you but don't expect to be some AA escort. You are stealthy and reasonably fast, and you should use that to keep out of trouble. I actually rather like Mutsuki, oddly enough. I guess she just clicks with me or something. Good luck with this ship, and may your grind be quick! Kancolle Pic to trigger people
  3. Hey all. I have started to put together some guide videos on how to improve. Hopefully the community will enjoy them and they help out in anyway. The first one is "What to shoot and When", a look at ammunition choices at a given target. To be honest, the audio quality isn't great due to some major hardware issues, but these have since been corrected. I would remake this video, but unfortunately the raw footage was lost to me. The Second in the series is "Map Awareness", taking a look at how to use what the mini map shows you to your advantage. All hardware issues were resolved with this one so I'm hoping its up to scratch. Part 3. How to (Ab)Use Terrain to Your Advantage. Those bits of land in your way, what use are they to you? This vid will hopefully help you to use, and abuse the terrain to help you stay alive and sink red ships. I will be adding more to this series as i make them. Hope you enjoy, and feel free to leave any comments. Vossie
  4. The overmatch mechanic in the game is not something that new or even more seasoned players often think about or even know about when they are in game. It is the first 'check' that is made when you shoot at another ship (or they shoot at you) to determine whether or not your shells will penetrate. That's why it's actually good to know about and consider when positioning your ship for a head to head battle. Overmatch is the term that is used to describe the relative ratio of a shells caliber to the armor it will come into contact with. That ratio is 14.3:1. That means, if the shell is 14.3 or more times greater than the thickness of the armor, regardless of angle, it will penetrate. For low tier ships this is not too important to know about as the bow-in game play is not as relevant due to inexperience and armor tends to be so thin, most cruisers can overmatch other cruisers. At mid to high tiers, however, (tier 5+) players start to learn the advantages of being bow in from more experienced players on their team. This is also where there are far more distinct lines between ship armor thickness and gun caliber. Most cruisers after tier 5 have bow armor that exceeds 13mm, meaning that with few exceptions only battleships can overmatch their bows and not other cruisers as most cruisers between tier 5-7 are boasting 152mm guns; 13mm is overmatched by 186+mm guns. As you progress down the cruiser lines your bow armor will get thicker, usually from 13mm to 16mm and typically topping out at 25mm at tier 8. Battleships on the other hand, have bow armor at about 19mm at tier 5 and typically top out at 32mm at tier 8. Of course there are exceptions to this, such as the German BB's who tend to have this thickest bow armor with plating. The thickest is actually the tier 5 Konig with 150mm plating on its bow. Though there are areas of the bow with 19mm, the majority of the bow, specifically providing cover for the citadel, is 150mm. This means that a tier 5 battleship can actually bow tank every ship in the game under most scenarios. Further, due to the larger caliber of guns on battleships, and heavier armor overall, there is more of a propensity so go bow in against another battleship. This is where the overmatch mechanic is really worth understanding. The only 2 ships, per WarGaming's design, that are capable of overmatching the bow of (nearly) every ship are the Yamato and Mushashi with their 460mm guns; the largest guns in the game. Therefore, going bow in against them is ill advised. The only ships that are theoretically able to go bow in against them are the Kurfurst and the Frederick der Grosse as they have 60mm plating on their bows. Though there are places where the armor is only 32mm, the thickness that 460mm guns can overmatch, much like the Konig, this plating will prevent frontal citadels under most circumstances. Both cruisers and battleships are capable of bow tanking ships of the same type and tier. Knowing who can you go face to face with can be critical in certain battles, especially in competitive play. Once again, this is a particularly common tactic among battleships but cruisers can do it as well. For those that wish to know if you can be overmatched or overmatch a certain ship simply divide the ships gun caliber by 14.3. If your armor thickness is greater than that, you're good, if not, find another tactic. Similarly, you can multiply your armor thickness by 14.3 to find out the minimum caliber of gun required to overmatch your bow. Finally, if you don't know any of this info or just don't want to worry about doing the math, I've created a Google Sheet than can do the calculations for you or you can look up the ships by name. A disclaimer for this calculator though is I have not included clone ships, such as any of the ARP ships, which are clones of the Myoko and the Kongo. You can find the link below. If you have any trouble with it, find errors, or have some suggestions for improvement, please let me know. Bow In Calculator
  5. Destroyers (the "DD") being the most influential class of ships, second to only the current OP and badly designed CVs, are vital to any team in any match, be it pro or random pubs. But the fragile nature of the ship makes them hard to perform in the hands of less experienced players. Just like any profession, DDs have their own bag of tricks, many of you would have learned through endless trial and error. Being humans with a written language, it provides us with the ability to pass down our hard earned experiences. Now what do you think contribute to player DDs better? Start with a simple one: Know your opponents camo ratings, especially of the destroyers on the enemy team.
  6. API Guide?

    Does anyone know if there's a guide for how to use the WG API? The search function couldn't find anything on "API". Further, does WG keep track of players in divisions? Thanks for any and all assistance.
  7. Deconstructing Dunkerque Guide

    Even since a certain reviewer posted his "Dunkerque - How To Deal With T8 MM" video, I've been itching to point out the flaws. The Dunkerque is one of Flamu's least played ships and least favorite ships, and it show by how he offers advice that can even be considered dangerous. So let's go through Flamu's lessons one by one and deconstruct his video. "So of course, it's low caliber guns, umm, the damage is lower as well. - This is no damage monster" The Dunkerque is tied with the Fuso in having the fastest firing Battleship guns at tier 6. The ship also sports so incredibly potent HE shells with tremendous muzzle velocity allowing long range targets to be hit with reliability (even broadside destroyers), and the all forward gun design and fast turret traverse ensures that the RPM will rarely be interrupted. The guns only have low damage when you ram the ship into an island and are unable to target any ships like Flamu does here. "A common mistake that many Dunkerque captains make is they think it is a Yamato, they think it is a North Carolina, they think it is a ship capable of parking nose-in duking it out. Now the Dunkerque can't even do this against tier 6s." "So your not going to be tanking anything in this thing" Not counting CVs, only 10% of ships in the tier 6 - 8 matchmaking have guns that can overmatch the bow armor on the Dunkerque, to say the ship can't bow tank is a gross miscalculation. Bow tanking is one of Dunkerque's greatest assets and Flamu here is needlessly throwing that asset away. In the replay provided below, you can see that in a Tier 8 match, out of the 5 enemy Battleships, only one had the guns large enough to overmatch my Dunkerque's bow. For Flamu to think that the ship can't even tank at tier 6 is beyond belief. Even against shells that can overmatch, going bow-on presents a far smaller profile that will ensure fewer shells will hit you, which is in essence providing protection. Other Battleships will have to show some broadside in order to utilize their full firepower against you, offering a larger target and exposing all of the fire hardpoints of their ship. Also cruisers and destroyers often will have their shells shatter against the bow at close range, which is still tanking. "You'll notice I was angled, trying to eat it [15" shells] on my broadside armor" Flamu's tactic here is dubious as he tries to present a larger target to his enemy (a Tirpitz in brawling range no less) and he ends up taking heavy damage for it. You want the shells to miss entirely so charging in against a top tier German Battleship and angling was an extremely poor tactical decision. Don't let the enemy play to their strengths, the Dunkerque has the speed to avoid these situations. "One of the key points of this is keeping on the move. - How do you play it? You keep on the move. You have to keep on the move" "One of my main lessons when playing the Dunkerque is never stop in the open. Being caught in the open and sitting still is a death sentence" This is one of the most questionable lessons that Flamu gives in his video. The Dunkerque is a very large target with a vulnerable broadside, moving forward when bottom tier is offering the enemy a juicy target. What you want to do in the Dunkerque is manage the enemy player's target priority. If your sitting at long range, and the enemy Battleship has numerous ships at closer range shooting at it, it's going to prioritize them over you because they are a greater threat and offer more dps to them. If your needlessly zipping around broadside at long-mid range, your going to present the enemy with a juicy DPS opportunity, and if you just charge in against tier 8 ships, your going to be outflanked and overpowered. The Dunkerque's speed and mobility is best used in the end game, when most other ships are dead. The Dunkerque is extremely dangerous against 90% of ships (in tier 6-8 MM) because they are incapable of overmatching her bow, which makes the ship one of the best carry Premium Battleships in the game and probably excellent practice for the Richelieu. "It's better to ram into an island at full speed" "Amusingly, one of the strengths of the ship, which is having all gun on the forward part of the ship, is actually a bit of a weakness." This sounds like intentional user error. "The secondaries have very awkward angles, you need to give far too much broadside to be able to efficiently use them. The secondaries in general are not recommendable" The Dunkerque has in effect, 2 Gearings strapped to the back of the ship with twelve 5" guns that can be used without the need to show any broadside. It has been the mistake of many DD captains to try and attack a Dunkerque from behind, thinking that is the blind spot. Note in my replay, that against the Loyang that attempted to attack me from behind, ended up sacrificing himself against my secondary guns in exchange for a single torpedo hit, my forward main battery was not needed. "If you have the lowest AP damage, umm the lowest AP alpha, all of these things also having the same reload as the other ships, really isn't that much fun." Flamu throughout his video complains about the Dunkerque AP shells several times, but he only ever uses those AP shells for 97% of the match. He never connects the dots that maybe he shouldn't use AP, and he never discusses the power of the Dunkerque's HE shells in the entire video and end up throwing away another of the ship's greatest assets with it's high fire %. Another problem with the Dunkerque's AP shell is that the tremendous muzzle velocity gives the shells the nasty habit of over-penetrating on fully broadside targets. Reliability in damage comes from the Dunkerque's HE shells, even against enemy cruisers. The AP shells require the enemy cruisers and even some battleships to angle in order for their armor to "catch" the AP shells, which means only using AP for select situations. "I do run concealment expert on this ship, and that ability to disengage is so-so important on this ship" Flamu yoloed right into the enemy and was never in a position for his concealment expert skill to help him disengage, so he effectively wasted 4 points on his captain. The Dunkerque strength comes from it's ability to maintain maximum RPM from it's main battery, which would be wasting another asset of the ship by trying to conceal this ship that can be spotted from the Andromeda Galaxy. (credit to Nozoupforyou for that analogy) By the 6:30 mark of his video, he's already 10km away from an enemy Battleship, concealment expert is worthless when yoloing. "The Scharnhorst, I play it very similarly" This is where the biggest error in his match, twice in his showcase battle, Flamu goes and brawls with 2 separate Tirpitz. One of which actually kills him after he tells his team "Don't die, and we win". I cannot stress enough that the Dunkerque is not a German Battleship, it does not brawl well with other German Battleships. Do not play to the enemies strengths. The Dunkerque high velocity shells enable it to effectively target ships at long range, so it becomes important when bottom tier to not charge at the top tier Battleships. This is how to play the Dunkerque in T8 MM. Flamu's advice is to always keep moving, that "being caught in the open and sitting still is a death sentence", but note how I do not stray far from my spawn point in the first 10 minutes of the match. I operate out in the open, but I keep a healthy distance away from the enemy to ensure I am never outflanked. Anyone whose played a RN BB knows that HE is best employed at mid-range, and that it's important to manage the distance between you and the enemy fleet. Even at bottom tier, I'm causing considerable damage by sitting back while also disrupting the enemies attempt to take the caps and setting fires. It's only at the halfway point, where the team if outnumbered 6:3 and the caps are in danger that I put the Dunkerque's speed to use. At this point, the enemy team no longer have any ships that can overmatch my bow, and thus the Dunkerque can play to it's own strengths and have unfair fights with the other ships, picking them off one by one and racking up the metals. That's my advice for T8 battles with the Dunkerque, wait it out, let the higher tier ships duke it out with each other until they've destroyed each other, then move in to wreak havoc. The Dunkerque is very strong against Destroyers and Cruisers at any tier, and will earn bonus points of sinking these higher tier ships, so you want to give yourself the best possible chance at taking them out. So don't go full potato and brawl with a bunch of Tirpitzs.
  8. How To: Benson in Ranked

    Actual battle starts at 4:30 Future videos will be edited properly. I don't have the time to learn how at the moment. https://youtu.be/r7LzU2W07y0
  9. IJN Cruiser Guide

    IJN Cruiser Strategy Guide This general guide works for all Japanese Cruisers, as a history buff on the side I like to incorporate some real world philosophies and strategies used by the respective navies and apply it into the game. If you just like to see my ship and commander build just skip through my background section. Some Historical concepts Japanese ship design in WWII was a mix of good hull designs and armament but poor technology in terms of radar and other aspects as compared with navies from the other nations. As we know IJN radar technology and fire control systems was quite underdeveloped compared to the USN, RN, and Kriegsmarine even by early war standards. However, even with this disadvantage they were still able to push back the British and American navies from the beginning of the War in 1939 to 1942 and even enjoyed some victories in the late war period against radar equipped USN ships. They understood their disadvantages and developed equipment and tactics to counter these. The common Japanese naval tactic was to approach unseen during the night, using their night binoculars and expertly trained lookouts they could spot a ship at 20,000 yards. Once all ships were in favorable position the lead ship illuminated the target with a high powered searchlights or even no lights at all and bombard the enemy with shells and torpedoes. The attack was intense to cause massive confusion and before the enemy could react they used the cover of darkness to slip away or to reload for another attack. So, What does this mean in game Well at first I recognized night battles and search lights are out of the question as it is not a game feature or designed in this way. However we have the concealment mechanic to substitute for this, if the enemy can't see you then you're basically in the "night". My entire loadout philosophy is going to be focused around concealment and fighting battles on your grounds. Many of the national characteristics already favor this approach, the IJN cruisers have high base concealment, accuracy, maneuverability, long range torps, and slow turret traverse. My loadout (I will be using the Zao a basis) Keep in mind our goal is to be sneaky and fighting battles on our own conditions General Loadout (Ships T5+ as they have access to more upgrades) 1 Slot: Main Armaments Mod 1 - A no brainer choice, as your guns and torpedoes are your primary weapons and reducing incapacitation chance is always important 2 Slot: Amining Systems Mod 1 - This should be the standard choice as your guns do quick significant damage and are already accurate, this mod makes your shot grouping even tighter. Using main battery mod 2 for turret traverse is ill advised since the turrets are already so slow it makes a small impact. The only ship I'd recommend with the mod is the Atago/Takao as their stock turret rotation is fast enough (though still slow) to keep with your turns. However you can tweek as you like. Also for AA mod again the Moyoko Ibuki and Zao are the only ones that can make the build viable as they have numerous small caliber AA guns with a good overlap coverage. 3 Slot: Damage Control Mod 1 - Again no brainer as it reduces chance of flood and fire 4 Slot: Damage Control mod 2 or Propulsion - This slot is completely to the person's liking, personally I chose propulsion as it boosts my mobility. Since all the cruisers up to T10 with fully upgraded hulls have a rudder shift of 7.1sec Steering gears is not really necessary, so having propulsion combined with my already fast rudder is a good combo. THis gives you high mobility which should allow you to not take hits thus kinda making Damage Control Mod 2 irrelevant. 5 Slot: Concealment System Mod 1- This is a very important choice and one which the entire loadout is based upon. Concealment mod allows your detectability to be very low as your stock concealment is already higher than other nations. This high concealment allows you to position yourself and bring all your weapons to bare before launching the attack, if need be you can hold fire and maneuver to drop off detection. 6 Slot: Main Battery mod 3 or Torpedo tubes mod 3 - this is again to personal tastes though I recommend taking main battery as the high detectability of the torps in the current meta especially at high tiers outweighs their capability. Consumables: Catapult Fighter Hydroacoustic - I would recommend this only for tiers 6 - 7 as CV threat is not that significant and close range battles are common. At high tiers Def AA is a must. This depends on your playstyle if your looking for extra AA protection then go AA if your DD hunting or doing close range work which the night battle streaty is all about stick with Hydro. Repair Party Commander Skills: 1 point: Preventative Maintenance, Direction center, and Priority Target 2 point: Expert Marksman 3 point: Demo Expert, Superintendent 4 point: Concealment Expert, AFT Most the these skills enhance your ability to do damage and boost survivability, Japanese cruiser armor is quite good compared with other nations but are still vulnerable to BBs and other cruisers. The first slot of skills allows you to reduce the chance of your primary armament going down and boosts survivability for both surface and air action. Expert marksman is a no brainer for your very slow turret traverse. Third point skills are also straightforward, though you could sub in BFT if you're looking for more of an AA build/support role though I would only recommend this on the Moyoko, Ibuki and Zao as they have better AA armaments. For the four point slots Concealment is important as combined with Concealment mod it makes you a ninja and the main point of this build, and AFT for a boost in AA especially for mid to high tier play when CVs are more numerous. Playstayle: Using the basis of the night attack strategy it is quite clear how to utilize your ship. As a cruiser you're job is to escort and support other ships since IJN cruisers do not have good AA your primary tasks will be to deal support damage and kill DDs. Use your concealment to maneuver to an advantageous position, take the time to bring all weapons to bare. You have to choose your engagements carefully and make sure you have an upper hand and the element of surprise. Once you're ready you can start the attack with either a stealth torp launch or main battery, once the target is eliminated go back to being a ghost or if conditions become unfavorable drop off detectability and reposition. Conclusion: This build is strictly using the Japanese disadvantage to your advantage and is revolved around sneaking to allow you to be in an advantageous position for your attack. Just like IJN tactics during the war which worked to a surprising effect against ships more advanced than theirs. IJN ships in game are not really cut out for support roles as they lack good AA, smoke, or good Hydro but they do make up for HE, accuracy, long range torps. There is a lot of freedom in this build and you can tailor it to however you want to play it. Though the main focus is concealment which gives you that positioning capability and fight on your terms, don't be afraid to hold fire till you're close or in position.
  10. Guide for new Captains Part 1

    Hello new Captains! My name is Zatriel_Blue ( just call me Zat) I have never written anything like this before but I have always wanted to. This is a guide that will cover most things that you will learn in your first 1000-2000 games. You might as well learn them and put them into practice now so you can start REALLY having fun! In this guide I will cover Armor Angling and Ammo Selection/ Mechanics. If this is well received I will write a Part 2-5. Armor Angling This is one of, if not the, most important parts of the game. Angling your armor will dramatically increase your effective up by mitigating and negating the effectiveness of incoming shells. So what exactly is Armor Angling? It is increasing the angle the shells hit your ship. To put it in a way that is easy to understand is to imagine if you had a large square of cardboard and a rock. The rock represents a shell that is fired and the cardboard is the armor of a ship. What would be the best way to throw the rock and make it go through the cardboard? Throw it directly at it from a perpendicular 90° angle or sort of diagonally at a 45° angle? The correct answer is the 90° angle because it allows the full kinetic force of the rock to transfer to the impact site on the cardboard. If it hits it at a 45° angle the rock cannot fully transfer its kinetic force to the cardboard. An in game example of this would be to say you have two identical battleships shooting AP (Battleships almost always shoot AP) X and Y. If X orients itself to where his broadside (flat side of ship) is at a 90° angle to Y's turrets and Y orients itself to where his broadside is angled 45° or less to X's turrets, Y will always win because X's shells are not able to penetrate Y's armor as well as Y's shells. 2. Ammo Selection Your ammo choice varies on the situation and can be tricky to fully master it on all ship types. I will cover the general rules for all classes and explain how AP and HE work. HE mechanics. HE shells have two possible outcomes when hitting a target, shatters, penetration, or citadel. Shatters yield 0 damage but still can set fires, penetrations deal 33% of the max shell damage and can set fires and citadels (highly unlikely) deal full shell damage. Here is the formula for the penetration values of HE shells. Shell caliber divided by 6 equal the amount of armor it can penetrate. Exceptions are British battleships, German battleships and German cruisers who's shell caliber is divided by 4. HE does not take into account angles of armor and does not continue through the ship to hit vitals. AP mechanics. They work by attempting to penetrate the outer later of armor and detonating inside the ship. AP shells have 5 possible outcomes. Shatter, ricochet, overpen, penetration, and citadel. Shatters and ricochets yield 0 damage, overpens (when your shells penetrate the full ship and fail to detonate inside it) yield 10% of max shell damage, penetrations yield 33% of max shell damage, and citadels (when your shells penetrate the ships vital parts) yield 100% of max shell damage. Ricochets are calculated based on the angle of the target. 0°-30° is an auto ricochet (0°-22.5° for USN 8inch shells). 30°-45° is a chance to ricochet (22.5°-30° for USN 8 inch shells). 45°-90° a ricochet will not happen ( 30°-90° for USN 8 inch shells). AP shells can also completely ignore some thicknesses of armor, this is called Overmatch. Overmatch is calculated by taking your shell size and dividing it by 14.3. The resulting number ( rounded down) is the thickness of armor that your shells will not calculate for ricochets. For battleships the general rule of thumb is to almost always shoot AP with the exception of the main line British battleships. The reason for this is the devastating power of a battleship AP pen and/or Citadel due to the high damage values of the shells. AP on battleships in its current iteration is effective vs every ship type in the game ( An AP penetration is crippling to destroyers). For British battleships AP still should be used rather heavily on targets that are showing broadside or that aren't very armored (Cruisers) and its is preferred to shoot HE on angled battleships due to its high penetration and fire chance. Cruisers will tend to generally fire more HE than AP due to the lower caliber of their shells but there are exceptions that must be adhered to. With the flat penetration of HE it is more consistent versus battleships at most ranges, generally better on cruisers at longer ranges and 99% of the time best on destroyers at all ranges. The exception to this comes with range and angles. Your AP effectiveness is increased by three factors: range, angle, and area of impact. Your range to the target is paramount because the shell loses penetration the longer it is in flight due to its smaller/lighter caliber. Angle matters because of the reasons stated earlier in the article. Area of impact is the last key factor and this varies on target. If you are shooting at a battleship and you are relatively close close and have a good angle, you have two good places to shoot AP at. These are the superstructure ( the tower and smokestacks) and the side of the bow (front) and stern (rear). These are the least armored areas that will net you penetrations. On cruisers the same first two principles apply but the area of impact should generally be in the center of the ship at the waterline as they are not as armored and can produce citadels. It is not recommended to AP destroyers. With destroyers the same rules as cruisers apply except that you favor HE even more in most ships. Higher tier Russian and Germans use the cruiser strategy for AP as their shell velocity and shell damage can produce devastating amounts of damage with their high reload. This concludes Part 1 of my guide. Please let me know how you feel about it and good luck out there!
  11. [REQUEST] Sound mod for AA

    So Long story short, I saw a somewhat recent thread about modding This SFX into the game for the various AA auras. Can anyone make this or ELI5 how to do so myself? Looking to make as wacky/meme worthy a game through mods as possible to share videos with friends. Thanks in advance
  12. Preface- This is my attempt to give back to the community and maybe help someone else. Special thanks to all those who have taught me whether they know it or they dont. Intro- This guide is a guide not on how to better play a ship or a certain class, it is about becoming a better player. It is not about skill but about the thinking behind. It is an attempt to bracket my experience through stages and explaining each stage. Preperations- These are the ingame preperations you should make. 1)Turn on alternative battle interface which will show you shell flight time and didstance 2) Make the minimap as large as possible. Stage 1: I just downloaded the game:- You have just downloaded the game and are playing your first match. Don't learn to crawl before you learn to breathe. Focus on having fun and you will slowly get a grasp of the mechanics of the game. But please, learn to LOVE THE GAME. Stage 2: I think there is a budding romance:- Watch youtube videos, preferably those more about content and less about humor or entertainment. Players like IChase, Flamu, Jingles are good for beginners. Listen to advice since no matter how much you think you understand the game, your limited experience means that 9/10 any advice given is gonna be beneficial to you, even so called bad advice to the average. This is if you are player with skill level 1 with average player base skill level 5, a skill level 2 advice is still better then a skill level 1 even though it is below average. Remember, at this stage you are still an infant, you should try and experience as many different things as possible and take in as much as you can to grow. Understand that people cussing you out is usually a sign that you are making a mistake. Take out the cuss words and see if you can gain any advice from it. Stage 3: Okay I think I am not a beginner but I am below average:- The stage 2 advice still holds for this stage. Additionally I want you to push in more, even if it seems suicide unless a better player tells you not to. This is because I want you to over-extend rather then under-extend. The thinking behind it is something I learned from golf coaches. In putting, it is preferable for a beginner to overshoot in a putt then undershoot since overshooting will allow you to see your limits and have a better grasp of the field then undershooting. Thus I want you to overextend and get yourself killed. THIS WILL TANK YOUR WR AND WTR HOPEFULLY. I want you to continue to be aggressive for at least 200 games. This would hopefully teach you the limits of your ship and how to survive in unwanted situations. Slowly after 200 games tone down on the aggressiveness, start to try and survive a bit more, slowly and surly pull back on the overextend. Simple advice to give at this stage 1) HE spam in CA and AP spam in BB. Yes there are situations where switching ammo works but for now focus on how to use the bread and butter of each ship. 2) It is never too early to learn about positioning. Start paying attention to the minimap. Make it a habit. 3) having fun is not an excuse to stay in this stage. Usually people in this stage are making obvious mistakes that would be commented on by other players. Learn from it while you keep having fun. Stage 4: YAY IM AVERAGE (and/or close or green wtr):- Now you are an average player. You are at this stage making mistakes less. The mistakes you make are mostly due to over-extension rather then under-extension. This is important, if you are under extending more then you are overextending go back to stage 3. I rather you know your limits of a ship then not now your limits, and the best way to learn is through trial and error. The usual metric to go by is go to warships today, compare the average damage/winrate to average survival rate. I want your average survival rate to be lower or equal to average of the server shown. Now the preface of this part is over lets get to the main part. Start playing the other classes of ship and see how they work. Learn what they like and what they dislike. The difference between many average players and above average players is target selection and positioning. This comes down to mini map awareness, positioning, experience with other classes of ship and overall experience of the game. Analyse on how you can do better. Try not to blame the team. You cannot change the team but you can change yourself. Ask yourself how you could have survived better. Maybe you should have pushed in less, maybe you should have shot another player. Did you use up all your heals in the game? Was there a shot you missed that you could have hit? learn from all these mistakes. Knowing which advice to take is now harder since statistically speaking only 50% of advice is beneficial to you. A good indicator is to take advice, no matter how much it seems to be countering your logic from someone with a significant win rate or wtr above you. This is usually because they have an understanding of mechanics that you do not. Yes some people farm wtr but more often then not they got there with their own skills. You can check their average tier to see if they got there seal clubbing or not. Also experiment with different Ammos. Stage 5: Im now blue, blue bababeedam bamdiumbiamba:- Not all youtube videos are created equal. Learn from the better ones and watch for enjoyment the others. You will naturally know which ones you have risen above and which ones you still need to learn from. Trust yourself. Try and division with other better player and learn from them. Keep improving. You got to blue and thus you should know your stuff. Most purple players I know are usually willing to play with dark blue or light blue players. If you cant find anyone feel free to division with members of the Night Owl, (shameless clan promotion). Remember to keep your chat open and see if you can get advice from others. Usually the advice wont work but once in a while you get a uni-cum player commenting on your play harshly or not and you can improve. Always look and see if you could have contributed more for the team, did you use all heals? did you hit all vital shots? If not improve. Dont blame the team cuz you cant change them, change yourself. MOST IMPORTANTLY HAVE FUN -(but try and be at least average) Special Thanks- Thank you for all players who have criticized me, no matter the language used or harshness, when I made a mistake. Special thanks to YourACTScore, LordBenjamin, NTLR, o_JMack_o, and other memebers of the NO for playing with me and teaching me during ranked and random. Thanks to Flamu, KamiSamurai, Ichase, Phildaily, Noster, and other youtubers for keeping me interested and teaching me the game. A little bit about the Author- BB main with a special emphasis on stealth Missouri and Monty. Played all BBs except the new British line and the GK. have completed both the IJN and USN line for cruisers and is now on the tier 8 for British and Russian while tier 9 on the German. Stat wise Last 430 days solo I have played 1184 cruisers and 2082 BB games with a win rate of 53.72% (1223 WTR) CA and 56.48% (1218 WTR) BB at an average tier of 7.3. Last 90 days solo I have played 244 cruisers and 496 BB games with a win rate of 56.56% (1324WTR)CA and 59.27% (1272WTR) BB at an average tier of 7.4 CA and 8.8 BB. These are used for your convenience to judge how much I know I am talking about. Afterwords:- It is your choice to take the advice (good or bad I do not know, though it is good advice in my opinion) and thus I would not be arguing in the comments but would still pop in time to time to do some clarification.
  13. I made a video for noobs

    Feedback please. Feed me your hate.
  14. Here, I will outline the basics of effective gameplay, by learning off of what others are doing. This guide assumes you already have a basic understanding of each ship type. Steps Enable Replays Play WoWs Identifying effective tactics Incorporating said tactics into your own game-play Perfecting and Learning even more tactics 1. Enable Replays. It's very simple. Just follow the guide in the official link: https://na.wargaming.net/support/kb/articles/517 If you don't have replays enabled, at the very least, record your game using OBS, or other similar game capture software. 2. Play WoWs Probably the most difficult part of this. I highly recommend playing a variety of ships at a multitude of tiers. The basics of gameplay are the same at any tier, but there will be minor differences between differing tiers, due to the way the armor, weapons and abilities improve in the ships. I will stress the point of playing multiple ships types, because this is the easiest way to encounter a variety of tactics employed by a variety of ships. You are likely to suffer from many deaths, because you are your own lab rat. Mistakes were made... but this is just a game, so you can learn from them 3. Identifying effective Tactics This is actually very easy to identify, but you may get annoyed. The very simple matter of the fact is, if you are getting annoyed at what someone is doing to your ship, it's very likely to be an effective game tactic. Such tactics may not be immediately obvious from the perspective of a unicum replay or video footage, because such players can make it look easy by cherry picking the best examples. Rest assured, a majority of these tactics have their counter-play, but you may not always see it. Every time you become annoyed at what the reds are doing, make a note of it and watch what is happening in the replay. If you are unsure what went wrong, don't be afraid to ask the forums for knowledgeable advice, as there might be more than one tactic, a compounded tactic, at work. Replays or footage are a must. For Example: Atlanta firing from behind an island Focus fire from different angles {aka: Crossfire} Kiting reds across the map, especially with HE Blindsided by torps Blindsided by many Battleship AP shells Radar caps from behind islands etc. Some crazy Ultra Unicum tactics being employed, but I can't make heads or tails of how or why this works 4. Incorporating effective tactics into your own game-play Now that you have identified some highly annoying tactics, try it out yourself. You may be surprised at the results. The thing to realize here, is that a majority of these annoying tactics are only effective in certain situations. In other situations, they become completely useless. Other tactics might even have a perfect counter-play. Wait, are you saying I can experiment on other people now? :evil laugh: For example Atlanta firing from behind an island is only effective when it squats in front of an advancing fleet, while also having the ideal island to shoot over Focus fire and Crossfire can be avoided entirely by merely kiting Kiting with HE only works when the reds give pursuit Torps can be WASD most of the time Make a note of your ship's concealment range and mind the islands and your ship angle if you are spotted Radaring caps from behind islands doesn't allow you to join in with your guns, or be all that effective with your guns for the entire time you are setup etc. This will make a fine... wait, it's already captioned! 5. Perfecting and Learning even more tactics Perfecting some tactics might not be that easy. Some are more difficult to perfect than others, but don't worry too much about perfecting them. The important bit is to identify when the tactic would be effective and attempting to use it. As highlighted in (4), there are even perfect counter-plays to the tactics you have just learned. Here, the game-play becomes a bit more advanced, so this may not seem immediately obvious, but this can be identified by your newly learned tactics being ineffective. The reds are not playing into your well crafted and well thought out plans. Again, make a note of it, watch what is happening in the replay and try to copy what the reds were doing to outplay your hand. Again, if you are unsure of what happened, don't be afraid to ask the forums, but do provide a replay. Emotional roller-coaster ride when your newly learned tactics work and don't work. All in all, I think "Unicum" game play in WoWs is about how well various tactics and counter-plays the player is able to memorize and utilize to maximize the performance of their ships. Not playing into the hands of the reds is also very important, but I think this is more related to staying alive for longer in a match, rather than maximizing the effectiveness of the ship. Good aim and prediction are also highly important to doing well, but I think good tactics plays a larger role in improving win rate and stats. Realistically, if your hit rate is equal to your opponent, the person in the better tactical position is going to win almost all the time. This image really does surmise most Unicum level gameplay in randoms. Reds get distracted by your team and then you blind side the reds with a devastating strike from stealth.
  15. Need Help With New Orleans

    Hello fellow captains, I've recently gotten the New Orleans, and I just cannot figure out how to play it. I keep getting citadeled from the bow, made a prime target, while having extremely slow reloading guns. I had absolutely no trouble with the Pensacola, but I am struggling quite a bit with this ship. Any help is appreciated!!
  16. River's Guide to 'Git Gud'

    Hello everyone. Odds are, you've seen the term 'Git Gud' before. Maybe you've used it yourself (Or a variation thereof), or had something similar parroted at you in the past when making a post on the forums, or saying something in-game. So, what does it mean? What should you take away from it? The (kinda) start of it all: Once, there was a game. It was called Dark Souls. Okay, so the term 'Git Gud' did not originate from Dark Souls, as is commonly assumed. It is, however, very much a part of that particular game's mentality, and as such the community of Dark Souls adopted 'Git Gud' for themselves. It stars in numerous memes and stories involving Dark Souls, and has become somewhat infamous among their circles. I guess before explaining 'Git Gud', I should talk a bit about Dark Souls itself, as a game. You know, since I'm sure there are some who haven't heard of it, nor know of it's reputation. So then, Dark Souls. It's a bloody difficult game where you almost spend more time dying than playing. Someone going through the game gets very used to those crimson words scrawled across the screen's middle, in a mockery of your pathetic attempt to 'beat' Dark Souls. It's a genuinely and unapologetically hard game to play through. The mobs are difficult. The plants will kill you. The bosses will crush your ego. Hell, even the chests full of loot will occasionally try and murder you viciously. Lots of people who play Dark Souls do it for the challenge, and the fulfillment of processing in a difficult game. It requires a lot from you, in dedication and patience. There is no 'easy' way to the finish line, and no ways to artificially lower the difficulty. (It actually get's harder the more you play through it.) To beat the game, you have to 'Git Gud', as the players would say. So then, that brings us back the the original question. What is 'Git Gud'? What does it mean!?: Speaking simply, it's just a bad way of spelling 'Get Good', meant somewhat as a mockery towards whomever the phrase might be directed. Typically, it's used in response to specific types of people and/or comments. And...er...we're rather well aquatinted with the types of comments that might inspire the 'Git Gud' retort. How about an example or two? (Or seven...) "____ class is OP, and needs nerfing!" "____ class is UP, and needs buffing!" "____ class needs to be added!" "____ mechanic sucks, and needs to be removed!" "____ mechanic need to be added!" "MM is broken, and sucks!" "The game hates me in particular!" By no means am I limiting the 'Git Gud' inducing comments to only these—no, there are far, far more that have been passed around these forums, and dismissed. So then, what does it mean when you write a thread about one of the above issues (or anything else) and someone responds with a 'Git Gud' like comment? What should you take it as? Well, simply—it normally means that you should probably look at your own performance in game, and see if perhaps there might be something that you can improve on. At least, that's what it's meant as towards those who complain of game balance and fairness in things like Dark Souls, and Call of Duty (*shivers*). However, my own interpretation of getting good is somewhat different. My own opinion: Okay, so look—I don't like the term 'Git Gud', at all. It's just not a very helpful answer to someone asking or suggesting something. I do agree with the sentiment behind getting good, though. A player should always strive to better themselves and their gameplay. Even if they're just playing for fun. And especially if they have an complaint which is based upon game balance. Someone should know full well the consequences of their suggestions, and how it might effect the game as a whole. And the only way to do that, is to have experience of the whole game. I firmly believe that someone should play the game as it exists now, instead of trying to get the game balance to change. If you want to get better at the game, use what's available to your ownadvantage, instead of letting the red team use it. That's the very first thing you need to do in order to win more. Accept the game as it is. Use what you have to gain an upper hand, and win. Abuse the mechanics to sink as many ships as you can. Learn to counter things, with whatever means are needed. Be ruthlessly cold-blooded, and don't care about fairness and 'game balance'. In fact, tell fairness where it can shove off to. Because, you want to be stacking the odds in your favor. That's how you win—by making sure the enemy will lose an engagement. And if game mechanics are patched, or otherwise change? Adapt. It's not the end of the world. The developers were just doing their job—which is making sure their game remains playable, and has a modicum of balance. 'Cause, that's what they do. They make the changes. (Not us here on the forums) I prefer to trust them, and I like to think that they know what they're doing. Maybe they do, maybe they don't. Doesn't really matter, in the end. Oh, and everyone else? If you see a player struggling with the game, or making...questionable tactical decisions, be nice. Give them good, solid advice, and try to at least help them. Be mindful of your tone while doing it, as well. There's a fine line between helpfulness and snobbery. And if the player doesn't want your help, drop it there. No use in arguing with them past that point. TL;DR Don't hate the game for 'unfairness'. Instead, try using it to your advantage. Maybe that's why the developers put it in?
  17. Need Help

    I've made it to T8 in the USN DD line by scouting and surprise torping ships around islands. At T8 however I just couldn't play anymore as the ROF, DAM, and mostly planes spotting me(CV and Cat launched) would kill me inside of 5 minutes every match. As I main CVs, I know that I can loose my whole squad instantly by flying into a smoke-hidden group so I decided to try playing escort DD just ahead my team just for the AA support and WOW IS IT BETTER! I know I'm not scouting as well, but I'm not being nuked and burned to death either. The Team AA cover keeps the planes off me, which are often targeting me anyway so they don't get bombed in the first wave and with fewer planes I don't get hit RNG'd so much. Mostly though I have support less than 2K behind me to shoo away the cruisers and DDs so I can keep pushing the front in the early/midgame In summery, I've never lived so long and done so well with a just a change in mindset that I always want to be near jump distance to at least 1 other ship on my team. I'm sailing at half speed until I reach a cap point/make first contact then it's circles all match around my teammates shooting the whole time and torping when I get the chance. Is this strategy viable for you experienced DD capts, am I doing something new or unusual? Is this annoying and ineffective? I've always watched the DDs rush forward then fall back or seek cover, never actually playing escort. What do you think?
  18. Disclaimer: Wall of text incoming... Greetings! As some of you know, I'm Kelorn of the Warships Podcast. If you've listened to the show, you know that I consider myself to be something of a battleship specialist. In the last 286 days, my top two played ships are the Yamato and the Grosser Kurfurst, and had the following stats: With bona fides established, I would like to talk about the strengths and weaknesses of the Yamato, how to use her most effectively, and what are the dangers of her armor scheme. In short, How to Make the Most of the Yamato. Armor and the Yamato The Yamato's armor belt is 410mm thick and is unified with the hull of the ship. This means that unlike the German battleships, which use a turtleback armor scheme, the Yamato's Citadel has only a single thick "layer" of armor for AP shells to penetrate. The armor is inclined inwards at approximately 15 degrees, increasing the effective armor against direct fire, in a minor way, and against higher angle fire, in a greater way. According to the design specifications in Target of Opportunity & Other War Stories by Robert Mckellar, the Yamato was designed to be immune to its own guns between 20,000 and 35,000 meters. The concept of an "Immunity Zone" in the form of "X to Y meters" is such that the belt armor can be penetrated below X meters, and the deck and citadel deck armor can be penetrated by a high angle plunging shell above Y meters. Below you can see the armor profile of the Yamato at amidships: In our case, the Yamato deck armor can be penetrated at 35,000 meters by 460mm guns. This isn't a terribly useful piece of information for us in World of Warships as the only guns with that kind of range are Yamato's own guns, with the Range extension module and the spotter plane active. Additionally, the chances of hitting a ship at that kind of range are minimal, even if the ship is sailing in a straight line. More useful is the fact that the Yamato can penetrate the belt armor of another Yamato at under 20,000 meters with a zero angle of incidence. This number is approximate, but it's safe to assume that you're vulnerable to another Yamato when broadside on at under 20 km. At about 18km you're vulnerable to the 406, 410, and 420mm guns of the other battleships in your matchmaking tier. Lesson learned? Don't show broadside. Armor Angling So, we're not showing broadside to our enemies, that's step one. The next step is to learn about armor angling. For the purposes of this section, we will ignore the possibility of the bow armor and transverse citadel bulkheads being penetrated. This is something we'll cover in the next section. So what is the effect of armor angling and how do we understand the concept of auto-bounce mechanics in World of Warships? Note in the upcoming Paragraphs, I will refer to the angle of incidence. Please see the following diagram, which uses the terms Laser light and image sensor, but the concept is the same: The first formula we need to understand is that of effective thickness in the case of inclined or sloped armor: Effective Armor Thickness = Actual Armor Thickness / Cosine of the Angle of Incidence As any World of tanks player will tell you, never park your tank pointed straight at the enemy, give him an angled side to shoot instead. The concept for World of Warships is exactly the same. In the case of Yamato, the 410mm belt armor, (ignoring for a moment the inclined inwards plate), when angled at 50 degrees to the front has an effective thickness of 637mm. Therefore, shooting at the angled belt armor of a Yamato angled at 50 degrees of the angle of incidence to your guns is nearly impossible to penetrate, even at extremely close ranges. The second formula we need to understand is that of the Auto bounce mechanic. 0-30 degrees -> auto ricochet (0-22.5 for USN 8" shells) 30-45 degrees -> chance to ricochet (22.5-30 for USN 8" shells) 45-90 degrees -> ricochet doesn't occur (30-90 for USN 8" shells) Simply put, if the shell impacts armor and does not overmatch, then if the angle is between 60 and 90 degrees of the angle of incidence (aka 0-30 degrees in the table above), then the shell will automatically bounce. Between 45 degrees and 60 degrees of the angle of incidence, then you may bounce. Under 45 degrees of the angle of incidence and ricochet cannot occur. So now we're not showing broadside, and we're angling to at least 45 degrees of the angle of incidence, preferably at least 60 degrees. So we're done, right? Sort of. If you've done this correctly, with your armor angled to 60 degrees of the angle of incidence you are functionally immune from being citadeled by guns of any caliber less than 457.6mm. Therefore, against Montana, Kurfurst, Izumo, Iowa, Fredrich de Grosse, North Carolina, Amagi, Bismarck, and Tirpitz you are completely safe if their fire comes at you from any angle over 60 degrees angle of incidence. Overmatch So why did I specify against guns of under 457.6mm in the previous section? The last mechanic a Yamato captain must be aware of is the concept of overmatch. It too is a simple concept, as is one that is crucial to understanding how and why you take damage when facing enemy Yamatos. Overmatch: If Armor Thickness < Shell Diameter / 14.3, then shells cannot ricochet This last section applies only when facing enemy Yamatos, as only the Yamato (as of this writing) has guns with a diameter greater than the 457.6mm necessary to penetrate the 32mm of bow armor on a Yamato. Incidentally, if you were curious why you have a hard time shooting bow on Moskva's, its because they have 50mm belt armor that extends to the bow of the ship and you'd need 715mm guns to overmatch it. Now we get into the peculiarities of the armor scheme of the Yamato. Instead of having flat transverse bulkheads, set at 90 degrees to the belt armor, the Yamato's forward transverse bulkhead is set in three pieces, like a chopped off Pyramid, which you can see in the screenshot below: Because this piece of armor is protected by the 32mm bow armor and is only 350mm thick, it can be penetrated when the 32mm of bow armor is overmatched by the Yamato’s guns. Thus we all know the famous advice when shooting at Yamatos: Shoot under the #2 Turret. This advice takes advantage of this weakness in the armor. So what can we do to prevent taking frontal citadel damage from an enemy Yamato? The truth is that there is no 100% effective way to prevent taking this damage. There are, however, things we can do to mitigate the problem: Don’t be afraid to open your broadside enough to use your #3 Turret. Normally, exposing your broadside is a risk and many Yamato players don’t use the #3 turret at all. However, in a close range duel against another Yamato, your bow armor won’t protect you anyway. Get that turret into play and you’ll not only increase your damage output by 50%, but you’ll also increase the likelihood that his shots will hit your angled belt armor, instead of overmatching your bow and frontal citadeling you. Use your rudder and engine. This seems pointless in a ship as slow and unwieldy as a Yamato, but even small changes in angle and speed can throw off the aim of your enemy. Especially at close range, Yamato on Yamato duels are often orgies of mutual destruction, even small reductions in incoming damage can allow you to win the duel and limp away to heal. Ask for help. This is admittedly easier to do when you’re in a division with a destroyer, but even if you’re not, ask for help. Be polite, but ask if there’s a DD close enough to smoke you up. If they don’t, you haven’t lost anything. If they do, you have a chance to hide and make it harder for enemies to hit you. Conclusion The point of writing this article was to help the community understand what the strengths and weakness of the Yamato really are. She’s one of my favorite ships in the game and I like to see her being played well. Take Care and I’ll see you guys next week. =) Kelorn
  19. This week I realized that I've played a 250th battle in my Saipan. It is probably a large enough number to warrant a forum post which summarizes my experience with this incredibly fun boat. Below are my current stats with the ship. I don't mean to brag (well, maybe just a little bit ). Rather, I want to establish my credibility, and make it clear that what I'm going to describe in the following sections works quite well for me. And yes, my solo win rate/damage/airplane kills are pretty much same. A couple of quick disclaimers before we dive into details: (i) This is the way I play the ship. I happen to have quite a number of strong opinions on how Saipan and carriers in general should be played. However, that doesn't mean that everyone who doesn't do what I do is a n00b that should immediately uninstall; I firmly believe that you should play first and foremost in a way that will make the experience fun for you. If, for example, you find the air superiority loadout to be more fun (be it because you like shutting down enemy CVs, or because you don't have much luck with manual torpedo bomber drops) -- more power to you. However, I must point out that if you want to win more often than not, my methods are probably going to be better than whatever alternative approach you choose. (ii) As the title suggests, this is a guide for Random Battles only. Saipan in Ranked is a whole other beast that I don't really want to get into. Loadout Okay, let's begin. First, any new Saipan player will immediately ask himself/herself: which loadout should I use? One with three fighters and one dive bomber squads (hereafter refered to as 3/1), or one with two fighters and two torpedo bombers squads (2/2)? I, for one, firmly believe that 2/2 is the correct answer here, and in fact I played every single one of my battles save one with that loadout. Let me explain why. In my opinion, these are the main duties of a Saipan (or any carrier) player, from most to least important: (1) Killing enemy ships. Don't ever feel bad about expending a torpedo sortie on a ship with 1K HP, unless he was going to die within 5-10 seconds of your strike anyway. In WoWS, even if the ship has 1 hit point left, the salvos still do full damage and the torpedoes are just as deadly. You see a BB crawling back behind enemy lines at 1K health? Kill him, that way he doesn't heal up and come back to citadel the bejeezus out of your team's ship. You see an RN cruiser at 1K hiding behind terrain? Kill him, so he doesn't smoke up when the consumable is off cooldown, and wreck your teammate with impunity for a minute or two. An absolute majority of games are won by kills, always remember that. (2) Damaging enemy ships. This is a corollary to point #1. If you take off half HP from an enemy battleship, it will become that much easier for your teammates to kill that ship. Remember, absolute damage doesn't matter; the percent damage does. For example, generally cruisers should be prioritized over battleships if you're certain in your ability to hit them with minimal airplane losses, just because losing 20k health is so much more impactful for a cruiser than a battleship (not to mention that cruisers don't have good torpedo buldges and will take full torpedo damage). (3) Protecting your ships from the enemy, i.e. preventing the enemy carrier from killing and damaging your ships. Yep, this is a less important task than killing and damaging the enemy ships. If you have to choose between protecting your strike airplanes that are going to target and protecting your fleet from the enemy air, most of the time the former is a better choice. If you play air superiority game, the best you can hope for is shutting down the enemy carrier (which is not always possible). That means you simply eliminated two carriers out of the match, and now it will come down to a coin toss based on the skill level of the other 22 players. Why would you ever want that? (4) Scouting. That's right, this is the least important carrier duty. Let's not forget, we're talking about Random Battles here. Truth be told, most players won't be able to properly utilize the vision you're giving them. If I have to choose between killing and damaging enemy ships, and trying to enable my teammates to kill and damage enemy ships, I'll almost always chose the first option -- because I know that Saipan in my hands is most likely much better at killing and damaging enemy ships than my teammates. Now, don't for a second think that point 1 is always more important than point 4, for example. Use common sense. You have to call off a strike for a half a minute in order to wreck the enemy bomber clump? Do it. You have an opportunity to shadow an IJN destroyer that's harassing your advancing fleet on the strong flank, even at the cost of less efficient strike? Do it. Always do the thing that will get you closer to victory. Anyways, now that I've listed your main objectives, let's return to the loadout questions. The 2/2 loadout is better at killing and dealing damage, the 3/1 loadout is better at protecting your fleet from the air and scouting. It should be clear by now why I will whole-heartily recommend the 2/2 option. Your realistic alpha damage is much higher (i.e. you're much more likely to hit most of the torpedoes than most of the bombs). Your damage over time from flooding is much higher. You can stack damage over time much more easily. You get more flexibility with strikes, for example being able to kill a badly damaged ship with one TB squad, and going after somebody with another one. The aircraft turnaround time is a bit lower. Besides, having two fighters instead of three won't make you impotent when it comes to defending your fleet from the air or to scouting. I shoot down, on average, more than thirty aircraft every single battle with the 2/2 setup. This isn't the Ranger dilemma, when you have to pick between a fighter-less strike loadout and an air superiority loadout that does little damage; you can have your cake and eat it too. Side-note: for Ranked 3/1 is better, because vision and being able to effectively attack destroyers is a lot more important there. And that's all I'll say about Ranked. Upgrades & Signals These are the upgrades I run on my Saipan: Air Groups Modification 1 (AGM1) -- pretty obvious. You will use your two fighter squads extensively every battle, so +10% to DPS is welcome. The other upgrade is nearly useless anyways. Air Groups Modification 2 (AGM2) -- same thing. Bonus to fighter survivability and especially ammunition is nice (you get an extra strafe and a half out of it). These fighter upgrades mesh well with the air supremacy commander perk. FCM1 won't give you all that much, because you turnaround time is already very low. AAGM2 is nearly useless as well. Damage Control Systems Modification 1 (DCSM1) -- a bit better than useless. This distinguishes it nicely from the other two upgrades that are completely useless. Steering Gears Modification 2 (SGM2) -- I have this on all my boats. Torpedo dodged is HP saved. Helps quite a bit when the enemy carrier is trying to snipe you. Now, signals: Juliet Whiskey Unaone -- Saipan's areal torpedo don't have the best flooding chance, +15% is very nice. As for magazine detonation, carriers in-game don't have magazines, so we're all good Victor Lima -- same. Though the increase in flooding chance is only 4% here, so only run this flag if you have enough of them in stock. You can run whatever you want in the other two slots. I'm running flags that increase commander XP because I use my Saipan to generate free captain XP. Instead, you might run November Echo Setteseven for example, to make yourself slightly more safe against carrier snipes. Up to you. Captain skills The core eleven-point build is as follows:Aircraft Servicing Expert (ASE): bonus to aircraft HP and service time Expert Rear Gunner (ERG): because, apparently, one-seater Skyraiders can shoot backwards in this game. I just imagine a pilot spray-n-praying with a handgun over his shoulder, Annie Oakley-style Torpedo Armament Expert (TAE): better torpedo bomber turnaround time Air Supremacy (AS): increases your fighter squad power by 33%, makes Saipan borderline OP Dogfighting Expert (DE) (+10% ammunition for fighters) Now, Torpedo Acceleration (TA) isn't core, but it's still nice to have, at least in my opinion. Mind you, this won't make your torpedoes reach the aim point faster, despite an increase in speed (from 35kts to 40kts). The torpedo warhead arming distance is time-dependent, so they'll reach the target point at about the same time. However, faster torpedoes will allow you to strike at turning targets with greater ease, and also the distance between torpedoes decreases (albeit very slightly), which could mean the difference between getting three torpedoes on target, and getting two or even one. That now leaves us with six points to spend. I would recommend Concealment Expert (CE) + Adrenaline Rush (AR). CE enables you to stay a bit closer to the fleet, bringing your surface concealment from 11.9 to 10.0km, making you a tad bit harder to find when an enemy carrier is trying top snipe you. AR accelerates the reload of your aircraft by as much as 20% (however, the time for take-off remains the same). The catch to AR is, you'd have to take a large amount of damage and then survive long enough for the higher aircraft cycling rate to matter. So, it is for the most part useful if there was an unsuccessful carrier snipe attempt against you. This is our final captain build: Couple comments on other options. Firstly, you can pick Basic Fire Training (BFT) + Emergency Takeoff (EM) instead of CE+AR. BFT makes you safer against carrier snipes (+20% AA DPS is nothing to sneeze at). EM helps against DDs that have managed to sneak to your ship and are shooting it up -- you'll be set on fire, and damage control won't help because you'll just get light up again (so save it for ~3 fires!), but if you can still cycle torpedo bombers while on fire you have good chances of killing that DD and surviving. Still, I believe that CE+AR is better. Secondly, a side-note about the one-point Evasive Maneuver (EM) skill: not worth it on Saipan. You'll forget to use it properly from time to time (i.e. clicking near carrier for returning aircraft, and only hitting the F key when they're under attack or have gotten to the carrier), thus increasing the bomber cycling time. And your airplanes are fast enough to out-run enemy fighters anyway. However, this is a great skill for tech tree USN carriers, which incidentally means that Saipan requires a dedicated captain.
  20. This guide is more intended for those who are relatively unfamiliar with forums, and do not know how to put fancy images and other media into a post. If this sounds like you, then read on. If it doesn't, then go read a salty thread or something. Images The first thing you need to know about images is that you can't put them into a post directly. At least, not in a way which looks good. Instead, you need an online link or URL in order to place a full-sized image into your post. Now, you may be wondering how one might get this online link, and how it can turn into a full-sized image. For the purposes of this demonstration, I will be using a website called Imgur. This site allows you to upload images, and copy a URL from that. Let's go ahead and go through the process of using Imgur. First thing, you'll want to sign up. It's completely free, and only requires you to create a username, give an email, and make up a password. Now, after having set up an account, you should be viewing the Imgur home page. Ignore the pictures there, and move your mouse up to the top right-hand corner. There should be a drop-down menu like this: You want to click on images. That'll bring you to an empty page where you can add images to your account via a green button that says 'Add Images'. This will prompt you to either drag an image to the screen, or browse your computer to find your image. Click on the spoiler below to learn what to do with those images, once they've been added to your account. Videos To place a video into a post requires only two distinct steps. First, you need a video from a website like Youtube. Like with the images, the URL is required to place the videos into your post. So, say I want to share with everyone the wonders of classical music. I'll look up an appropriate video on Youtube, and copy the URL of said video from the web address bar. The video I wish to share has an URL at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9E6b3swbnWg. Like with the images, I need to go up into the icon menu above the post being edited, and click the icon that has the Youtube logo in it. Yes, this one. Good job past River, for highlighting that. I knew it would come in handy sooner or later. Clicking that icon will bring up a window to place the URL in. Again, fantastic highlight job. Just place the URL in the blatantly obvious URL section, and you'll be ready to post the video. You can also mess around with the Start at option to begin the video at a specific point, by following the notation. It's as easy as that. I hope you've found this guide to be the least bit helpful. Please, if you see someone struggling with their images, direct them here so that they can learn how to do it.
  21. River's Guide on Writing a Good Post

    So, I'll admit I'm writing this for entirely selfish reasons. Lately, there have been quite a few posts being made that upset my sensibilities as an author, and as a reasonable human being. I want to go over how to make a good post that quickly conveys a message in a way people will take seriously, and how not to say stupid stuff in said post. (Bonus points for fancy alliteration.) Formatting Firstly, one of the most important parts of a good post is formatting—and there are some that falter on this most basic and humble of skills. You know them—the ones who post a wall of text, or do odd things to the layout of said text. Such things often turn people away from whatever you wish to convey in the post, or immediately have them dismiss you. After all, if the OP can't even spare the effort to make their post look good, why should anyone pay attention? Trust me when I say there's an easy fix to such a problem. On your keyboard, there should be a key. That key should say "enter" on it. Amazingly, when you press that key, whatever you're writing drops down a line. This can be useful for separating different points into an easy to read way, giving them clear boundaries while also introducing an artificial pause in the reading. Now, that pause can be very useful in some instances, where you want people to stop for a short second or two, or if you simply want things to look and sound pretty when people are reading the post over. Like now. I had finished the points I wanted to make in the last paragraph, so I hit the enter key twice and dropped down to start a new one. It prevents the post from taking on a 'wall-of-text' feel, while also making it easier to understand and read. And when you're done with an entire section of points which are related to each other, and need to move on to the next big idea, either drop down a bit further, or introduce a divider element to the post. For shorter posts, I'd recommend just dropping down two lines, but for something like this, it's helpful to visually divide one section from another. I accomplish that like this: Now, onto my next topic! Grammar I won't wax lyrical on why proper grammar is important, because I'm pretty sure everyone understands or at least has heard that speech before. Instead, I'll tell you what grammar can do for you! First off, proper usage of grammar makes you sound good, and has people taking you seriously from the get-go. When I see a post missing capitalization, punctuation and such; I cringe a little. It immediately tells me that this person must have not put much thought, time, or effort into their post. Proper grammar will have people reading your post, and thinking about the points you make instead of "oh, there should be a comma there, oh, that's hideously misspelled, oh, that should be I, not i...." and so on, so on. Really, proper grammar is proper etiquette. Just as poor manners at a black-tie event will get you called a bumpkin and lessen other's opinion of you, poor grammar will have your readers think lesser of you. Now, how do you improve grammar? Well, there's no easy way about it. You have to read. *Gasps of horror* No, really. Just read a book every now and then, and take note of how things are written. Then, whenever you find yourself writing something, take a step back and think about how it could be improved. Authors call this process editing, and pretty much all of them do it. I know that once I finish writing this helpful little guide, I'll go back over it—combing for grammatical errors, awkward turns of phrase, and the ever present spelling mistake. And it's even more likely that there will still be something wrong that I missed. Word Choice Word choice is an oft discounted, but extremely important part of writing. And there's only one thing I can say about it. As long as the words are not overtly inflammatory, nor vitriolic in nature, stick with what you know. Too many times I've seen someone misuse a word pulled from a thesaurus in an attempt to sound smart. Hint: It doesn't work. If you can't think of a fitting word off the top of your head, use another. There's nothing saying that the vocabulary you have right now is inadequate. As long as you can articulate your message in an understandable way, everything is fine. But for those who want to add that little extra something special, and brutalize others with a massive vocabulary, well. Read more. That's how you grow your vocabulary list. I'm sure you've noticed how many big and not-so-well-known words I've used while writing this. That's just down to years of devouring every book thrown my way. So, in other words, don't use a thesaurus. Don't try to insert smart sounding words to sound smart. Instead, actually get smarter and learn while reading. Writing Style This is what I like to call "The Product". It's what comes from the other three points discussed thus far. Formatting, grammar and word choice come together to form a writing style that distinguishes you in some way or another. A lot of writers are vaunted for their unique and different writing styles. However, that doesn't mean that you have to develop something which separates you from the crowd. No, writing style is just the natural off-spring of everything else. It does have an impact on whatever you write though, in the same way your speech patterns change how you interact with people. Sometimes it can be antagonistic in nature, or humorous in other cases. My own writing style is a fine blend of pointed sarcasm, humor, and what I hope is intelligence. If for any reason you find that people are responding badly to something you've written, ask yourself if it might be the writing style. If you write very aggressively, then people might respond by getting defensive. If you write poorly, people might not take you seriously. Just stuff like that. Now, you can change your writing style. It's sometimes employed as a literary technique by authors to portray the different personalities of various characters, or changes in environment and setting. Unfortunately, changing your writing style requires you to be as objective as possible, to not be biased towards your words. It might be helpful to get a second opinion on the initial style, and some advice as to how it might be changed in a different direction. As I'm not an expert in such things, I'll refrain from outlining exact ways of accomplishing it. How to not be stupid. Congratulations. You can now write a somewhat cohesive and good looking post. However, there might still be a problem. The contents. It doesn't matter how good of a post you write, someone will think otherwise. To be human is to have opinions, and someone is certainly going to have one different from your own. I have my own opinions on right and wrong, and I occasionally blast someone I perceive for being a dummkopf. Now, there are some rules to writing a post which will not end in a typed screaming match. At least, these are the rule I try to use. Generally, they've worked out well. 1. Think before posting— "Is this really a good idea?" "What's the popular response going to be?" "Have there been other threads like this?" "How did they end?" Just stuff like this. Consider deeply whether it's a good idea to hit that Post New Topic button. 2. Be understanding— If people are demonstrating an opinion different from your own, wonder why they have they opinion. Don't automatically think that you are in the right. 3. Be humble— Otherwise, be ready for others to take a dump all over your post. Nobody likes a braggart. 4. Research— If you aren't sure something's true, then it might not be. Make sure that you've researched all your content for consistency's sake. 5. Never assume— The snakes will come out of the woodworks to prove just how wrong you are. 6. Be patient— Really. Like, really really. Nothing is accomplished by going off the rails at someone, even if it feels good. 7. Be helpful— Ask yourself, "what does this post add to the community?" If you don't have an answer, don't post it. These rules can also be applied to replies or comments after the initial post. In fact, they should be. You've all probably seen a thread that starts out well, then just implodes due to the things being said in the comments. Exercise these rules in that case. And whatever else you do, at least try to be nice, okay? Otherwise, I will become cross, and annoyed River is not a happy River. If you're reading this in order to better your writing skills, then I hope you've found this guide even the slightest bit helpful. If you're still struggling, I highly recommend checking out some of LittleWhiteMouse's ships reviews. Those are all great examples of a fantastic post, and demonstrates most of what I mentioned in the above post. If you're reading this because it looked interesting and there was no other new topics, then I have an idea. Post a link to this thread when you think someone else can benefit from it. I would like to see this community become better writers, one and all. TL;DR—Really? Put in a bit of effort man. Or watch this. It's what happens when you don't english right. Credit to Macabe for suggesting it, and Weird Al for the OC.
  22. I've moved this thread to a more appropriate place. Access it here
  23. This weeks edition of World of Warships (for plebs) features the Yamato! (and no spinning this time!) And a short guide/suggestions on how to actually use the ship unlike last week's montage. All feedback is more than appreciated!
  24. The Admiral Graf Spee is one quirky heavy cruiser. Many people find the ship unsettling due to its slower speed, gun characteristics, and sub optimal match making bracket. The Graf Spee in reality is a miniature Scharnhorst equipped with Hydro-acoustic Search that can spot enemy ships under 5.28 km and torpedoes to a maximum range (with Vigilance) of 4.57 km. Guns are 11 inches and in a 3 x 2 configuration. A single salvo from an individual turret has the damage potential to instantly killing a cruiser of the same tier. The excellent ship handling, though slow in acceleration, allows the Graf Spee to evade torpedoes with ease. Combining the long range Hydro, powerful armament, as well as powerful secondaries. The Graf Spee can clear a smoked area infested with DDs and British cruisers with impunity. The thick 100 mm belt armor can bounce battleship shells if angled property, and the 19 mm bow armor cannot be overmatched by any cruisers except another Graf Spee. High survivability together with powerful torpedoes allow the Graf Spee to play aggressively, closing the distance with an enemy ship and engage the target with point blank torpedo salvos while peppering it with 11 inch AP shells. The small cross section of the ship also helps the ship survive through concentrated enemy shelling. The Graf Spee is, as historically designed, a Cruiser killer. In order to maximize the fire power of the Graf Spee, a captain must have excellent gunnery skills. One of the disadvantages of the Spee is its limited turrets as well as long reload. Each missed salvo per turret reduces the Graf Spee's damage output immediately by 50%. But if aimed properly, no cruisers of the same match making tier can survive an encounter with the Spee. The gun range for the ship is 16 km and a fairly flat trajectory can be achieved under 14 km - making citadelling enemy cruisers much easier. At the start of any match, the Spee should immediately pick a flank, steam towards it at full speed. When arriving at the destination, the Spee should either steal smokes from friendlies or more likely, find an area that is close to cover. If time permits, turn the ship towards the direction of escape before engaging. Priority targets are enemy's forward DDs and cruisers. The 11 inches AP shells can do great damage to enemy DDs, potentially can cut their HP by 2/3 if all 6 shells land. A clean over pen, however, will only do 840 damage per shell, so aim slightly lower. The dispersion of the shells are 170 m, maximum, meaning if aimed property majority of the shells would land even on a small DD. Switching to HE is not necessary, because there's a good chance an enemy cruisers would be in range showing its broadside. Due to the long reload of the guns, switching ammunition types is disadvantageous. After destroying all enemy DDs and cruisers in the Spee's flank, the Spee can choose to close in with remaining enemy BBs head on and do torpedo runs. If that is not possible, then simply move with the friendlies while offering supporting fire. Each salvo of 11 inch AP shells, if not bounced or over penetrated, can easily do more than 10k in damage (but on average 3 - 5k are expected). Though the Spee's top speed is not as fast as other cruisers, at 28.5 knots, it can still relocate to a position that can help the other flank without trouble. Make sure always attack towards the objectives and never chase other ships, all but the slowest of the BBs can outrun the Spee. The high survivability of the Graf Spee allows the ship to be more daring mid game. Finding battleships without escorts for close quarter combat with torpedoes. A daring Graf Spee can turn the tide of a match. Priority Target is a great skill to allow the Graf Spee to maximize damage output. The Graf Spee can be matched with tier 8 ships. In such unfavorable match ups, engaging cruisers is still the top priority, but take extra caution due to the dangers of higher tier battleships. Any shells from BBs will over match the Graf Spee's bow armor, so angling towards BBs can only reduce the numbers of shells hit, but when the shells do hit they will do tremendous amount of damage. It's best, when against tier 8 ships, stay with the team and play as a support around 13 - 15 km range. Keeping an eye on Priority Target warning at all times. Stay with the friendly offering them hydro support as well as extra spotting from on board float plane. To squeeze extra torpedo spotting out of both hydro and spotter plane, try rotating between them. Spotter plane is also useful in spotting ships (especially ships with long range AA capacity) on the other side of obstacles. Combining with RDF, popping spotter plane to spot cruisers some distance beyond an obstacle and beyond hydro range is possible and allows the Spee to be ready to engage the cruiser immediately upon clearing the obstacle. Be aware, cruisers, even with 5 inch guns, can penetrate a broadsiding Spee when they are firing at a flat trajectory. So angle the ship against cruisers firing AP at all time if engaging them close up. Due to the Spee having high HP pool and repairs consumables, it fears no fires, don't be discouraged by HE spams. Captain skill recommendations as follows: http://shipcomrade.com/captcalc/1100000010000010100001010000001019 The build is revolving around Adrenaline Rush. Taking skills that allows the Spee to survive longer so the ship can stay at low HP more safely to maximize the damage boost from Adrenaline Rush. The build is for a play style that is balanced on a knife's edge. Knowing when to retreat and when to use the ship's great HP pool as well as the repair capacity as buffers to take risks and reap the rewards. Radio Location is chosen because it works in conjunction with Hydroacoustics (Vigilance also extends hydro's torpedo spotting range), allows the Spee to charge smokes and preemptively launching torpedoes as well as orient the ship to minimize torpedo damage. It also helps the Spee to re orientate its guns before going around obstacles. The ship most likely will never fire HE shells, so picking skills that boost HE capacity is a waste. The ship's natural camo rating is enough and need not be boosted, the Graf Spee's guns can comfortably engage enemies beyond 13 km range with high accuracy. It is highly recommended to equip the India Delta (Dreadnought) Battleship captains love this set. It gives you a 20% bonus to HP recovered when using the "Repair Party" consumable. so to maximize repair consumable. Worry not, if played correctly, the Spee will earn the player many Dreadnought achievements. With the above captain's build, and with India Yankee (Fireproof) Losing your ship to untamed fire says a lot about how unprepared your crew is. "India Yankee" decreases the time of fire extinguishing by 20%. Repair consumable can easily counter damages even from two consecutive fires. Saving Damage Control for more pressing matters. Recommended Upgrades: Slot 1 Slot 2 Slot 4 Slot 5 Replay of a Favorable and Typical Graf Spee Game. All points of this write up can be seen in this replay. Video of the match, for those who do not want to watch it in replay form (when the music lines up with game play just right, later third of the match). (For players that is having difficulty with the ship, skip through the 4 hour footage to get a general idea of the ship's handling.) Aggressively Clearing Smoke video. Due to the deadly cruiser killing ability of the ship, match outcome can easily influenced and good results can easily be achieved. PS: special thanks for WG, unlocked a supercontainer for 500k Credit at the end of 100 games in Graf Spee. Also special thanks for Notser for some inspirations in play style.
  25. As a DD main, I have come to play my DDs very, very well, and have picked up lots of several tibbits of info and tricks to improve my performance in-game, with help from my fellow, forumers, from just playing the game in training rooms, and best of all just playing the game in general. While I'm no unicum or anything (although I am close to the purple), I do tend to find a lot of people who don't really know how to play their DDs well, even at higher tiers. People who do things that should never EVER be done if you can possibly help it. people who tried to rush the center of Two Brothers in their DDs and get rekt because of it. Then there's me, racking up points, damage, and sometimes carrying(I don't find myself carrying very often, but when I do, its amazing). Anyways, these people look at my gameplay and ask me "How do you do so well? Im in a DD just like you and I'm dead?" Well for starters, don't rush the center of Two Brothers. To all of those people, and to anyone here who may not be quite up to par in their DDs, the rest of this is my guide on how to not suck while playing a destroyer. There are currently 4 nation's tech trees that have a DD branch. They are the United States, Japan, Germany, and the Soviets. Each nation's destroyers all have unique characteristics, and their play styles can't be more different even if they tried. IMO, the "best DD line" goes as follows, Soviets, USN, KM, and lastly the poor ol' IJN DDs. But the same with not just Dds but ALL lines in WoWS, there really is no "best line." At the end of the day, it all comes down to personal preference. I love the Soviet DDs best because they fit my play style well. I love going around shooting things, but not being in much of harm's way myself. I also love being annoying. I love being a fly in the soup. I love generating large amounts of salt. I feed on the salty tears of BB captains after I burn them down for 50k fire damage and an Arsonist medal. Anyhoo, where was I? Oh yes, DD play style preferences. In this guide I will cover all existing lines of DDs in WoWS. The Pan-Asian DD line is still yet to be introduced but info has been shared by the devs. See bottom of OP First off, some general DD tips and tricks -Don't sit still in smoke. While at tiers VI and below you can generally get away with this, at higher tiers, more often then not, if you sit still in smoke you're gonna end up eating a faceful of torps -Use your smoke to cover allies when they need it. As of patch 0.6.13, BBs especially have lost their ability to fire from smoke without being detected, unless they're no enemy within ~14km of you, which is highly unlikely. Still do smoke up allies, but put more though into what targets you are smoking up, and exactly how useful that would be to them given their class of ship; caliber of guns -Use your smoke conservatively most of the time. Don't pop at the first sighted enemy unless you're a USN DD covering the rest of your team from multiple threats. Pop it when you need it, not when you want it (Execption being adressed later; Also, this one was suggested by another forumer, not myself) -Always use your WASD hax -Don't attempt to engage a larger enemy such as a CA at close/point blank range, not even if you have torps ready. IT WILL USUALLY NOT END WELL (Generally speaking, Exception being the USN) -However, don't be afraid to take risks. Sometimes the cost of winning is your ship. Is there a BB thats wrecking half your team? Rush him and torp him. Even if you go down, if you can at least get his attention away from your teammates, if not sink him/her outright, you can turn the tide of battle -KNOW THE RANGE OF YOUR TORPEDOES -Captain skills and upgrades really have no set "best build." Experiment around and see what fits your play style -"Stagger the Launch with your torpedoes (See IJN section on how to do this) - And of course finally comes the number one rule with destroyers, Lets start off with the Soviets (VMF). (Not just WG. I also have Russian Bias ). Anyhoo, the most prominent characteristics of the Soviet Navy's destroyers are -Very good guns, with fantastic shell arcs, speeds, aire drag, flight times, and range -Rather poor Krupp values; These DDs generally rely on fire and DoT for their damage (but not all the time) -Fantastic AP shell performance against broadside targets such as BBs or CAs -Show-ish rudder shift time for a DD, and very large turning circles, especially at the higher tiers (*cough* *Khabarovsk* *cough*) -Very poor concealment. Don't expect to be very sneaky -Very situational torpedoes from tier VII and below, most of which only having a range of 4km. Don't expect to use these much, if at all. -Meh AA at tiers VII-VIII and below. AA becomes rather decent for a DD at tiers IX and X -Your ship travels at ludicrous speeds, often exceeding 40 knots So for do you play these destroyers well? I got an answer for you. First, think of these DDs as more of light cruisers with no citadel and ludicrous speed. Its already been established that these DDs don't really hide well. These DDs are rather unique in that regard, as they don't rely upon stealth for their survival. They instead rely on their high speeds to dodge incoming fire. They operate best at long range for this reason. Also as such, DON'T expect to contest caps directly early on. You are more of a ranges support operative then a front-line fighter. Only cap early if and only if enemy force/opposition is minimal. When sailing a VMF DD, stay near the maximum range of her guns if you can possibly help it. Shoot AP at broadsides of BBs and CAs, you may be surprised by the results. Burn anyone you shouldn't be around. Stay near your team's CAs and even BBs so the enemy team has something to focus on that isn't you. Use your engine boost and WASD keys to make yourself a very frustrating target to hit, while at the same time lighting them up with your guns and burning them to death (Or AP'ing them to death. Whichever comes first). When playing a VMF DD, place your priorities on larger surface ships such as BBs and CAs; just keep at range and harassing them with HE and AP gunfire. Don't tunnel-vision. Always maintain your situational awareness. Never EVER stop shooting (Unless you find yourself getting focused down and you HAVE to use stealth to get away), and you will do very well with this line of DDs. Next up is the United States Navy (USN). Characteristics of these DDs are -Good guns for knife fighting, very ineffective at long range due to their terrible shell arcs, speed, air drag, and flight times -Ok krupp values. Don't expect to be firing much AP, though. -Very tight turning circles and extremely quick rudder shift time -Ok concealment at lower tiers. At high tiers (VIII and up), concealment is fantastic -Situational torpedoes at lower tiers (VI and below), at higher tiers the torps are usable but not amazing until tier IX and X -Very strong AA defense at tiers IX and X -Only average speed and maneuverability So how to play these DDs? First off, don't expect to be shooting up things from range. Instead, take the really aggressive approach and contest caps early with your good guns and great maneuverability. Unlike the Soviets, your ship works best at closer ranges <8km. This way, your shell arcs and speeds aren't as big an issue. As a USN DD, your job is to contest caps early and spot targets for your team. DDs of the US tech tree have the best smoke generators of any branch, and as such, their smoke is widely recommended to be used to cover your teammates then yourself. The basic jist of a USN DD is to live fast, die young, and leave a really good-lookin' corpse. Go down swinging. get used to it. You'll find yourself doing it alot. Also, use your torpedoes (From tier VII and up) for zoning rather then damage. Is there a channel where there's likely to be an enemy force pushing? Torp it. Deny the area. Flank collapsed and is exposed? Torp the area, and fight a delaying action, similar to an IJN DD's role, only much more aggressive. Don't be afraid to get in close and ram your torpedoes down people's throats (Don't get to suicidal ranges though. Stay about 4km away at least is the general rule of thumb). Next up comes the Germans (KM). These DDs tend to -Better guns the the USN, still inferior to the Russians -Nice shell arcs and speeds. A bit faster then the Americans, on par with the Japanese, but still quite a ways away from the Russians -Increased AP damage in exchange for lower HE -Wide hulls make these DDs very vulnerable to AP hits from CAs, and even BBs and other DDs -Meh AA all around, but is above average by DD standards -Meh maneuverability all around -Respectable torpedo armaments all around -Tolerable base concealment, but the gun bloom penalty is absurd -Smoke? Never heard of it. These DDs have the worst smoke duration of all DDs, and don't expect to use it much for support as much as a temporary hiding place for when you need it -Speed is alright. Much faster then the Japanese, on par (for the most part) with the USN, but still quite a bit slower then the Russians Best way to play these DDs? These DDs have characteristics that stand out. Most radically in their A.) Increased vulnerability to AP shells, B.) Their HE/AP damage tradeoff, and C.) The radical variations in playstyle as you climb higher up the tiers. Lets start with C. These DDs from tier II-IV are mainly torpedo boats. Their torps are effective all around, but are predominantly torpedo boats at lower tiers. These tier KM DDs have the unique ability to fire torpedoes more or less directly ahead of the ship, meaning you only have to expose a little bit of your ship to get your torpedoes off. The downside, however, is that you can only fire at maximum two from this position. If you wish to get more off, you'll have to expose more of the ship then you may want to. But from tier V-X, these DDs become more and more like gunboats. While their torpedo armament is very viable, these tier KM DD rely on their guns more and more (More power to you if you make it past tier V). Anyways, my best advice for the tier V and VI DDs is to play them as a mix between the Soviet and American DDs. Get in close and be aggressive, but only stay at about the maximum range of your torpedoes. Generally, this will be about 8-9km. Fire off torp walls, then go back to guns. At tier VII-X, these DDs are more on par with the Russians, but require a range of about 10km to effectively land hits due to the poorer shell ballistics. The tier VI and VIII KM DDs are best known for their option to mount 150mm guns. AKA, cruiser guns. At tier VI, just stick to the 128mm guns is all I have to say. But at tier VIII, the 150mm guns are definitely viable. These DDs rely on AP more then HE, as the HE damage is lowered in exchange for higher AP performance. Always switch to AP against ANY broadside target (Except another DD, but DO fire AP at other German DDs). When no targets are showing a good angle to shoot at, just spam them with the HE, and hope for fires. Also, don't forget your torpedoes. While at higher tiers, these ships are mainly gunboats, their torpedoes are VERY viable weapons. These ships are best used at about 10km range, where you do have time to dodge incoming fire, much in the same ways the VMF DDs do, except only now, you have little room for error, as A.) You have less HP, and B.) The punishment you can take for making a mistake can hurt your chances very, VERY hard. As for the gun bloom issue, expect to spend most of the game spotted and employing your elite status WASD hax. All in all, these are a solid line of DDs. Be prepared for the transitions in play style as you climb the tiers, and adjust accordingly, and you will perform great with this line of destroyers. Last up but certainly not least is the Imperial Japanese Navy (IJN). These DDs all have -Poor gun handling with poor range and turret traverse speed, with a questionable RoF -Reasonably good shell arcs/speed. Better then the Americans but still far worse off then the Russians -Fantastic torpedoes (Once you get past tier VI, anyways) -Generally speaking, the best concealment of all DDs, but not by much -AA? What's that, a type of vodka? -Very slow speeds, but with ok rudder shift time and turning circles. Most IJN DDs only travel at a speed of 33-35 knots. -Their torpedoes have a very high detection range. They are spotted easily, and this is because they are so deadly. When you're not trying to stagger the launch, firing your torpedoes in a "wall of skill" pattern can help to maximize hits from a spread So how do you play these destroyers? If you ask me, these are the hardest nation to play, as they don't really have many characteristics that stand out from the rest of the crowd. Whatever you can do, another DD can usually do it better. While statistically, they are the worst line of destroyers currently in the game, that doesn't mean they're bad. Because believe me, they are not. Japanese Destroyers require a very strict balance between passiveness and aggressiveness. You want to find the "magic range" where you are close enough to the enemy to be able to effectively launch great walls of skill, but still be far enough away to avoid the risk of detection. IJN DDs do not react well with gunfights with any vessel (unless it is another IJN DD). Their poor gun handling coupled with their meh-ish RoF makes them not helpless, but close to it. The hardest part of playing these DDs is retaining your stealth. Prominently at higher tiers, American gunboat DDs will have detection ratings that significantly rival your own, which makes close quarters encounters with an "undesirable" adversary. Your guns and RoF will not be enough to out DPM an American, Soviet, or German destroyer. Your only chance here is if the enemy Dd is low HP. Should you be spotted, the usual best course of action is to simply pop smoke, and haul @#$ in the other direction. Pop some torpedoes behind you at where the enemy was last seen or where you think he may be headed to slow him down. Even if you miss or he takes a different course of action then what you had originally thought, better to be safe then sorry. The main role of an IJN destroyer is mainly spotting enemies and stealth torping enemy targets such as BBs to damage, flood, or at very least slow them down. Speaking of slowing down, if there's one thing these DDs excel at, its fighting delaying actions. When a flank is weak or collapsed, you can buy a significant amount of time for your team to respond by launching the occasional wall of skill in their direction. But at higher tiers, torp reloads get very long, generally about 2 minutes. This makes it hard to launch enough walls of skill to effectively slow them down, right? WRONG! A very easy remedy to this is a tactic known as "staggering the launch." Doing this is simple; all it requires is a little bit of patience. To do this, simply fire one spread of torpedoes, keeping at least 1 tube in reserve. Now you wait. Wait for the first torpedo tube ro reach about its halfway point in reload, then fire the reserve tube. This way, you can put out just as many torpedoes in the water, but in half the time. IJN DDs revolve around balance. Be close to the frontlines and to the action, but still far enough away to not be at risk yourself. Smoke your team if the need it. Slow down and delay pushed. Spot enemy torps in the water early for the rest of your team behind you. Doing this may not be the most rewarding way to play these DDs, but IMHO this is certainly the most effective. Or you can do what this good fellow says: But do remember that detonations exist. If you find an enemy DD, Pray 2 RNGesus real hard and he may just come through for you. Any ship can sink any other, and as such, even though you're usually at a massive disadvantage against any DD of any other nation, doesn't mean you can't stand and fight. usually it won't end well, but reread what I said about detonations. Or you can rek them with torps. or you die. Whichever comes first. Just remember this: Remember the general tips area? It said "Use your smoke conservatively. Save it for when you NEED it?" There are exceptions to this one. 1.) If you're in a DD div or there's another DD on your team that's nearby, the other DD can also pop smoke and extend the smoke wall you laid further. This gives the rest of the ships behind you free reign at shoot at things with impunity save for the blind torp spam, and as long as someone is spotting the targets 2.) This builds on my interest in playing mind games. Say that you, one DD, one CA, and one BB are all that's guarding a flank from half the enemy team. If you and the other DD both pop smoke, and have the BB and CA and one of the DDs sit in it and spam guns, it can create the illusion of a massive force just waiting to be revealed. This can effect the confidence of the enemy team on that flank, and they may stumble around for a minute or two trying to come to a consensus on what they want to do next, meanwhile, on the other flank the lemming train is well, lemming right into their cap. This can act as a good delaying action on a weak flank, but Radar CAs will likely prove troublesome at the very least with this 3.) Draw in enemy DDs. Only do this if you have unspotted support, BTW. When you pop smoke, position yourself in a way that would be hard to hit with torpedoes (preferably nose/stern forward, facing the enemy directly). If the enemy DD is confident in themselves, or believe themselves to have the advantage (USN vs IJN, etc), then they may try to bumrush the smoke and kill you off, then you proxy spot them and they get rekt. Should he kill you and he falls of detection, chances are he took a fair ol' amount of damage in the ordeal and will likely try to retreat, thus putting him out of the battle directly for a while. if he doesnt show signs of retreating, just pop Radar or Hydro and rush the smoke and finish him off is he decided to stay put, or wait for the smoke to dissipate (Reply #52 copied/pasted) If you find yourself having trouble, don't be afraid to hop into a training room (There is a pinned thread on how to enable these) and experiment around until you get the hang of it. Practice does make perfect eventually, ya know. If you need to, feel free to message me ingame and division with me. If I have time, I'll happily throw more tips, tricks, and strategies your way. So that's my guide on how to not suck while playing destroyers. hope you learned something. If you did, the more you know. If not, then there goes about 5 minutes of your time. Sorry. Good luck, and see you on the high seas! SEVERAL NEW UPDATES LATER: -As of patch 0.6.3, OWSF has been officially removed. You will be seen if you fire in the open. -As of the latest patch at the time of the update, firing from smoke now has a detection penalty. This won't affect your DD play, because your detection after firing from smoke will still be less then 3km, and if you're that close to an enemy then something must have gone seriously wrong with your game plan. And the NEW PAN ASIAN DDS: This line has yet to be released, but I can tell you all general characteristics and my predictions on how they will play, but until they are released and played take this section with a grain of salt: From an ocean of news, update blags, forum posts, and several other things, the state of the line is as follows: The line (From tier VIII+ IIRC) will have access to the almighty Surveillance Radar consumable in place of smoke, to make up for the fact that their torpedoes cannot hit enemy DDs (See next bullet) DEEP WATER TORPS: This is a big one; these fish will NOT be able to damage any destroyer in the game. Period. Despite that handicap, being "deep water," these torps will be much harder to detect, and any other class aside from DDs will be in for a world of pain should the fish not be spotted mush earlier on. Their detection range will leave almost no time to react Will have similar weaknesses to a lot of other DDs: Battleship AP pens. The tier X, from what i can tell, is a modified version of the current USN tier X Gearing. Wide hull will make her especially vulnerable to AP rounds. Should you choose to slot Radar, I would highly recommend playing in division with another DD equipped with smoke, as without smoke you are highly vulnerable and won't have it to fall back on should you need it. More will be written and my recommended play style and tactics will be posted when the line is officially released to the public